Ultimate Tyre Care Guide NZ: Maximise Safety, Performance & Longevity
Your tyres are the only thing between your car and the road — whether that's the Strand in Tauranga, State Highway 1 through the Waikato, or a gravel track to your favourite camping spot. This comprehensive guide covers everything Kiwi drivers need to know about keeping tyres in top condition, tailored to New Zealand's unique conditions where hot summers meet wet winters (but no snow for most of us).
⚡ TL;DR — The Essentials
🔧 Pressure: Check monthly when cold. Use your door jamb placard — typically 32-36 PSI for cars, higher for SUVs and utes.
📏 Tread: Legal minimum is 1.5mm. We recommend replacing at 3mm for wet weather safety.
🔄 Rotation: Every 8,000-10,000 km or at each service to ensure even wear.
⏰ Age: Check the DOT code. Tyres over 6 years old need attention; over 10 years = replace.
🛠️ Free tools: Use our PSI Guide and Driving Safety Report to check conditions for your area.
📊 NZ Tyre Safety: Key Numbers
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🌏 Available in Multiple Languages
Tyre safety essentials in NZ's most-spoken languages plus international visitors.
1. Understanding Tyre Size Notation
Every tyre has a code on its sidewall that tells you everything about its size, capacity, and speed rating. Understanding this code helps you buy the right tyres and ensures you're not compromising safety or performance.
🔍 Decoding Your Tyre Size
Here's how to read a typical passenger car tyre code:
What Each Number Means
| Element | Example | What It Means |
|---|---|---|
| Section Width | 215 | Tyre width in millimetres from sidewall to sidewall |
| Aspect Ratio | 60 | Sidewall height as a percentage of width (215 × 0.60 = 129mm sidewall) |
| Construction | R | Radial construction (virtually all modern tyres) |
| Rim Diameter | 16 | Wheel size in inches |
| Load Index | 95 | Maximum weight per tyre (95 = 690kg) |
| Speed Rating | H | Maximum safe sustained speed (H = 210 km/h) |
Aspect Ratio Explained
The aspect ratio affects ride quality and handling. Lower numbers (like 45 or 50) mean shorter sidewalls — these "low profile" tyres offer sharper handling but a firmer ride and are more vulnerable to pothole damage. Higher numbers (like 65 or 70) mean taller sidewalls — softer ride, better bump absorption, but less responsive steering.
XL/Reinforced vs Standard Tyres
You might see "XL" or "RF" (Reinforced) on some tyres. These have strengthened internal construction allowing higher air pressure and greater load capacity than standard tyres of the same size.
- Common on SUVs, utes, and vehicles carrying heavy loads
- Require higher inflation pressure to achieve their rated capacity
- If swapping between XL and standard, pressure settings change — check your placard
- Not "better" than standard — just suited to heavier applications
Common Load Index Values
| Load Index | Max Load (kg) | Typical Use |
|---|---|---|
| 91 | 615 kg | Small/medium cars |
| 95 | 690 kg | Medium cars, some crossovers |
| 98 | 750 kg | Medium cars, SUVs |
| 106 | 950 kg | SUVs, utes |
| 116 | 1,250 kg | Light trucks, heavy utes |
| 121 | 1,450 kg | Commercial vehicles |
Speed Rating Reference
| Rating | Max Speed | Typical Use |
|---|---|---|
| S | 180 km/h | Family sedans, older vehicles |
| T | 190 km/h | Family cars, minivans |
| H | 210 km/h | Sport sedans, performance SUVs |
| V | 240 km/h | Sports cars |
| W | 270 km/h | High-performance vehicles |
| Y | 300 km/h | Supercars |
Always match or exceed the manufacturer's specified ratings. A lower-rated tyre may fail under conditions your vehicle was designed for — even if you never reach those speeds or weights. The ratings also relate to heat resistance and structural integrity.
🚗 Real-World Example: Wrong Size = Failed WOF
What went wrong: A Ranger owner in Hamilton fitted 33" tyres (285/70R17) to replace the stock 265/60R18s without checking the overall diameter difference. Result: 7.5% oversize — exceeding the 5% maximum without LVV certification. The vehicle failed its WOF, and the owner had to buy another set of correctly-sized tyres.
What should have happened: Use our Tyre Size Calculator first to compare sizes visually and check the percentage difference. If you want to go bigger, know the limits — or get LVV certification first.
The fix: Our WOF Axle Checker shows exactly what's legal for same-axle matching, and the Alternative Size Finder suggests legal alternatives that give you the look without the WOF fail.
🏭 OE Markings: Manufacturer-Specific Tyres
You'll sometimes see cryptic letters on tyre sidewalls like *, MO, AO, or N-spec. These are Original Equipment (OE) markings — they indicate tyres developed specifically for particular car manufacturers.
| Marking | Manufacturer | What It Means |
|---|---|---|
| * (Star) | BMW, MINI | Tuned for BMW dynamics — stiffer sidewall, sharper steering |
| MO | Mercedes-Benz | Optimised for Mercedes comfort and handling balance |
| AO | Audi | Calibrated for Audi quattro and ride characteristics |
| N0/N1/N2 | Porsche | Porsche-approved for specific models and performance |
| VOL | Volvo | Matched to Volvo safety and comfort standards |
| T0/T1 | Tesla | Low rolling resistance, reinforced for EV weight and torque |
OE tyres are genuinely different — not just marketing. For BMW * tyres, the compound, sidewall stiffness, belt angle, and even groove placement differ from the regular aftermarket version. They're specifically tuned to work with your car's suspension, steering, and electronic systems.
The trade-off: OE tyres often prioritise the manufacturer's priorities (handling feel, low noise for luxury cars) over universal performance. Some independent tests show OE versions have slightly worse wet grip than aftermarket versions of the same tyre. For most drivers, the standard aftermarket tyre is perfectly fine — and often slightly better in wet conditions. If you have a performance BMW or Porsche and value the exact factory feel, OE-marked may be worth the premium.
Know your tyre size before buying. Width, aspect ratio, and rim diameter must match your vehicle. Load index and speed rating must equal or exceed OEM specs. XL tyres need higher pressure — check your placard when swapping types.
🔧 Helpful tools: Size Finder Guide • Tyre Size Calculator • Load Rating Guide • Speed Rating Guide
2. UTQG & EU Tyre Ratings Explained
Beyond the basic size code, tyres carry standardised ratings that help you compare performance across brands. Understanding these ratings helps you make informed choices — balancing grip, wear, and efficiency for your driving needs.
UTQG Ratings (US System)
UTQG (Uniform Tire Quality Grading) is a US Department of Transportation standard found on most passenger tyres. It rates three characteristics: treadwear, traction, and temperature resistance.
- 400 = Moderate treadwear (balanced life/grip)
- AA = Excellent wet braking
- A = Excellent heat resistance
This would be a quality touring tyre — good all-round choice for NZ conditions.
EU Tyre Label Ratings
The EU tyre label rates three different characteristics: fuel efficiency, wet grip, and external noise. You'll see these on many tyres sold in NZ, especially European and Asian brands.
Which Ratings Matter Most for NZ Driving?
| Driving Style | Priority Ratings | Ideal Combination |
|---|---|---|
| Daily commuting | EU Wet Grip, Fuel Efficiency | UTQG 400-500 A A, EU B/B |
| Wet climate focus | Traction, Wet Grip | UTQG AA traction, EU A wet grip |
| Maximum mileage | Treadwear | UTQG 600+ treadwear |
| Performance driving | Traction, Temperature | UTQG 200-300 AA A |
| Fuel economy focus | Fuel Efficiency | EU A fuel rating |
📊 The Real Physics: EU Wet Grip Grades Decoded
These numbers come from our Ultimate Braking Physics Simulator — calibrated against real-world test data including Continental's Contidrom test track results and UNECE R117 certification standards.
Actual Grip Multipliers (vs Grade C baseline)
| Grade | Wet Grip Factor | Stopping @ 80 km/h | Extra Distance vs A |
|---|---|---|---|
| A | 1.15× baseline | ~26m | — |
| B | 1.06× baseline | ~28m | +2m |
| C | 1.00× baseline | ~30m | +4m |
| D | 0.89× baseline | ~33m | +7m |
| E | 0.80× baseline | ~37m | +11m |
What this means: The difference between a Grade A and Grade E tyre at 80 km/h is 11 metres — nearly 3 car lengths. At 100 km/h, that gap grows to 18+ metres. On a wet Auckland motorway with traffic merging ahead, those metres are the difference between stopping safely and not.
📚 Sources: EU Regulation 2020/740, UNECE R117, Michelin testing data, UltimateBrakingPhysics v3.5.1
🌧️ Real-World Example: Grade E Tyres in Auckland Traffic
What went wrong: A commuter bought the cheapest tyres they could find for their Corolla — EU wet grip Grade E, UTQG Traction B. Seemed fine in summer. Then came a heavy rain on the Southern Motorway. Traffic stopped suddenly. They needed 37 metres to stop from 80 km/h. The Mazda ahead with Grade A tyres stopped in 26 metres. Result: rear-end collision, $4,500 damage, increased insurance premiums.
What should have happened: Check the EU wet grip rating before buying. In NZ's climate, Grade A or B wet grip is worth the extra $20-40 per tyre. That 11-metre difference is the gap between "close call" and "insurance claim."
Try it yourself: Our Tyre Braking Simulator lets you compare stopping distances between different tyre grades and conditions. See exactly how many metres you'd save with better tyres.
Use ratings to compare tyres objectively. For NZ conditions, prioritise wet grip (UTQG Traction AA/A or EU Wet Grip A/B). Treadwear is a trade-off — softer compounds grip better but wear faster. Temperature rating A is best for highway driving.
🔧 Helpful tools: Braking Simulator • Tyre Grades Explained • Budget Tyre Comparison
3. Maintain Correct Tyre Pressure
Correct tyre pressure is the single most important factor in tyre safety, performance, and longevity. Get this wrong and everything else suffers — grip, wear, fuel economy, and even blowout risk. Studies show 80% of vehicles have at least one underinflated tyre.
🎯 Typical Pressure Ranges by Vehicle Type
These are general ranges only. Your specific vehicle may differ. Always refer to the tyre placard on your driver's door jamb — that's the manufacturer's recommendation for your exact vehicle and tyre size.
Why Pressure Matters So Much
| Pressure Issue | What Happens | The Risk |
|---|---|---|
| Underinflated | Edges wear fast, sidewalls flex excessively, internal heat builds up | Blowout risk, poor handling, reduced fuel economy (+3-5%) |
| Overinflated | Centre wears fast, reduced contact patch, harsher ride | Less grip, uneven wear, more impact damage susceptibility |
| Correct pressure | Even wear, optimal contact, proper sidewall support | Maximum grip, longest life, best fuel economy |
📦 Adjusting Pressure for Load
Your door placard shows pressure for "normal" driving — usually 1-2 passengers with minimal cargo. When you load up for a trip, increase pressure to handle the extra weight safely.
| Load Situation | Front Adjustment | Rear Adjustment |
|---|---|---|
| Normal (1-2 passengers) | Standard placard | Standard placard |
| Full passengers (4-5 people) | Standard | +3-5 PSI |
| Light cargo (camping gear, luggage) | Standard | +3-5 PSI |
| Heavy cargo (building materials, moving house) | +3 PSI | +5-8 PSI |
| Max load / Towing | Use "max load" value on placard (typically 38-44 PSI) | |
Underinflated tyres under heavy load are the main cause of holiday blowouts. The extra weight increases flexing, which builds heat, which weakens the structure. Adding a few PSI costs nothing and takes 2 minutes — it could prevent a $1,000+ roadside emergency.
The Temperature Factor
Tyre pressure isn't static — it changes with temperature. For every 5.5°C change, pressure shifts by approximately 1 PSI. A tyre filled to 35 PSI on a cool Rotorua morning can hit 40+ PSI by the time you reach Tauranga on a hot afternoon.
- Check cold — before driving or 3+ hours after stopping
- Check monthly — tyres naturally lose 1-2 PSI per month
- Never release air from hot tyres — you'll be underinflated when they cool
- Don't forget the spare — it's useless if it's flat when you need it
- Increase for heavy loads — check placard for "full load" settings
Pressure Conversion Table
| PSI | kPa | Bar |
|---|---|---|
| 30 | 207 | 2.07 |
| 32 | 221 | 2.21 |
| 34 | 234 | 2.34 |
| 36 | 248 | 2.48 |
| 40 | 276 | 2.76 |
| 50 | 345 | 3.45 |
Find Your Exact Pressure Recommendation
Our comprehensive PSI Guide covers pressure recommendations by vehicle type, load conditions, and common scenarios. Includes placard location guide and troubleshooting tips.
View PSI Calculator →💨 Real-World Example: Highway Blowout from Low Pressure
What went wrong: A family heading to Taupo for Christmas hadn't checked their tyre pressure in months. The rear tyres were down to 22 PSI (should have been 36). Loaded with luggage and running 80+ km/h for 2 hours, the internal heat built up in the flexing sidewalls. Blowout on the Desert Road — no cell coverage, 40-minute wait for help, holiday delayed, $800 for emergency tyre replacement and tow.
What should have happened: A 2-minute pressure check before leaving would have caught the problem. Our PSI Calculator shows exactly what pressure you need for loaded travel — typically 3-5 PSI higher than normal driving.
The physics: 25% underinflation increases braking distance by 10% and internal temperatures by 15°C. At highway speeds with a loaded vehicle, that's the recipe for catastrophic failure.
Check pressure monthly when cold. Use your door jamb placard, not general guidelines. Underinflation is more dangerous than overinflation and is the main cause of tyre failures. Temperature changes pressure — set it cold and let physics do the rest.
🔧 Helpful tools: PSI Calculator • Vehicle Load Calculator • Towing Load Calculator
4. Inspect Tyres for Damage and Wear
A quick visual inspection once a month — or before any long trip — can catch problems before they become dangerous. Here's what to look for when you're washing the car in the driveway or waiting for the kids at swimming lessons.
🔍 The 5-Point Monthly Inspection
Understanding Wear Patterns
Wear patterns tell you what's wrong — if you know how to read them:
Never fit one new tyre with older tyres on the same axle. Different tread depths mean different grip levels — in an emergency stop or corner, one side grips while the other doesn't. If you must replace only two tyres, fit them to the rear axle for better stability (yes, even on front-wheel-drive cars).
🔍 Real-World Example: Sidewall Bubble Ignored
What went wrong: A customer noticed a small "bump" on their tyre sidewall but thought it was just how the tyre looked. They drove on it for another month. The bubble — caused by internal structural damage from hitting a pothole — eventually ruptured at 100 km/h on SH2 near Waihi. The tyre exploded, shredded the wheel arch, and nearly caused a rollover.
What should have happened: Any bulge, bubble, or unusual shape on a sidewall means the internal cords have broken. The tyre will fail — it's just a matter of when. Replace immediately, no exceptions.
The lesson: Monthly visual inspections take 2 minutes. Walk around the vehicle, look at each tyre. Check for bulges, cracks, cuts, embedded objects, and uneven wear. If something looks wrong, it probably is — contact us for advice.
Look at your tyres regularly. Wear patterns reveal underlying problems. Sidewall damage is always serious — no exceptions. Fix the root cause before fitting new tyres, or you'll wear through them the same way.
🔧 Helpful tools: WOF Tyre Requirements • WOF Axle Checker • Free Tyre Check
5. Tread Depth and Legal Requirements
Tread depth directly affects your ability to stop in wet conditions — and in New Zealand, that matters. Whether it's a summer thunderstorm rolling over the Bombay Hills or persistent winter rain in Wellington, worn tyres can't channel water away from the contact patch.
New Tread Depths by Tyre Type
| Tyre Type | New Depth | Replace At |
|---|---|---|
| Passenger/Touring | 7-8mm | 3mm |
| Performance/Summer | 6-7mm | 3mm |
| SUV Highway (HT) | 9-10mm | 3mm |
| All-Terrain (AT) | 12-14mm | 4mm |
| Mud-Terrain (MT) | 15-18mm | 4mm |
How Tread Depth Affects Wet Braking — By Tyre Type
Different tyre types start with different tread depths, which means "half worn" looks very different on a passenger tyre vs a mud-terrain. Here's how wet braking performance degrades for each type:
"Effective wear %" shows how much of your usable tread is gone. A passenger tyre at 4mm is ~57% worn, while an AT tyre at 4mm is ~71% worn. The stopping distance impact reflects this — deeper starting treads have more to lose.
Passenger/Touring Tyres (New: 7-8mm)
| Tread Depth | Effective Wear % | Water Evacuation | Wet Braking Impact |
|---|---|---|---|
| 8mm (new) | 0% | 100% | Baseline |
| 6mm | 29% | 88% | +5% distance |
| 4mm ⚠️ | 57% | 65% | +15% distance |
| 3mm (replace) | 71% | 50% | +25% distance |
| 1.5mm (legal min) | 93% | 25% | +50% distance |
All-Terrain Tyres (New: 12-14mm)
| Tread Depth | Effective Wear % | Water Evacuation | Wet Braking Impact |
|---|---|---|---|
| 12mm (new) | 0% | 100% | Baseline (note: AT starts ~15% longer than passenger) |
| 8mm | 40% | 82% | +8% distance |
| 6mm | 60% | 68% | +18% distance |
| 4mm ⚠️ (replace) | 80% | 52% | +32% distance |
| 1.5mm (legal min) | 96% | 22% | +58% distance |
Mud-Terrain Tyres (New: 15-18mm)
| Tread Depth | Effective Wear % | Water Evacuation | Wet Braking Impact |
|---|---|---|---|
| 16mm (new) | 0% | 100% | Baseline (note: MT wet braking ~20-25% longer than passenger new) |
| 10mm | 41% | 78% | +12% distance |
| 6mm | 69% | 58% | +28% distance |
| 4mm ⚠️ (replace) | 83% | 45% | +42% distance |
| 1.5mm (legal min) | 97% | 18% | +68% distance |
All-terrain and mud-terrain tyres should be replaced at 4mm, not 3mm. Their aggressive tread patterns rely on deep channels for grip — both on and off road. Once they're worn to passenger-tyre depths, they lose their off-road capability while still being worse than passenger tyres on sealed roads. At 4mm, they're the worst of both worlds.
How to Measure Tread Depth
Method 1: The 20-Cent Test
Insert a 20-cent coin into the main tread grooves. If you can see the "20" text on the outer band, your tread is getting low (around 2mm or less). It's not precise, but it's a quick roadside check.
Method 2: Wear Indicators (TWI)
Every tyre has small raised bars in the grooves — usually marked "TWI" (Tread Wear Indicator) on the sidewall with an arrow pointing to their location. When the tread surface reaches these bars, you're at the legal minimum. Time to replace.
Method 3: Tread Depth Gauge
A proper gauge from Supercheap Auto or Repco costs about $10 and gives precise measurements. Check multiple points across the tyre — if readings vary significantly, you've got a wear pattern problem to address.
At 1.5mm, your tyres are legal but compromised. Braking distance in wet conditions can be 50% longer compared to new tyres. At highway speeds on wet roads around Hamilton, Palmerston North, or Christchurch, that's the difference between stopping in time and not.
🌧️ Real-World Example: "They Passed WOF Last Month"
What went wrong: A driver hydroplaned on the Kapiti Expressway in moderate rain. Their tyres were at 1.8mm — technically legal, just passed WOF. But at 100 km/h on 3mm of standing water, the worn tyres couldn't evacuate water fast enough. The vehicle aquaplaned for 40+ metres before regaining grip, narrowly missing the barrier.
The physics: At 1.8mm tread, hydroplaning threshold drops from ~92 km/h (new tyres) to approximately 74 km/h. This driver was 26 km/h over their tyres' safe limit for the conditions.
What should have happened: Replace at 3mm, not 1.5mm. The extra $200 for new tyres is cheaper than the excess on a barrier claim — or worse. Our Braking Simulator shows exactly how tread depth affects your stopping distance.
The speed at which your tyres lose contact with the road and "float" on water can be calculated:
Hydroplaning Speed (km/h) = 10.35 × √(Tyre Pressure in PSI)
| @ 32 PSI: | ~59 km/h threshold | @ 38 PSI: | ~64 km/h threshold |
Critical: These are ideal thresholds for new tyres. Worn tread, wider tyres, deeper water, and harder compounds all reduce this threshold significantly. At 3mm tread depth, expect your threshold to drop 15-20%.
1.5mm is legal but not safe. Replace tyres at 3mm for proper wet weather grip. Check depth regularly using wear indicators or a gauge. Different depths front-to-back are normal; different depths left-to-right on the same axle suggest alignment issues.
🔧 Helpful tools: Braking Simulator • WOF Requirements • Shop Replacement Tyres
🔬 The Physics of Stopping: The 4mm Cliff Effect
This data comes from Continental's Contidrom test track — one of the most comprehensive tyre testing facilities in the world. The numbers reveal something critical: tread depth doesn't degrade linearly. There's a "cliff effect" below 4mm where grip deteriorates rapidly.
Continental Contidrom Wet Braking Test @ 80 km/h (Passenger Tyres)
| Tread Depth | Stopping Distance | Increase vs New | Grip Factor |
|---|---|---|---|
| 8mm (new) | 26.0m | Baseline | 100% |
| 6mm | 28.5m | +10% | 91% |
| 4mm ⚠️ | 31.5m | +21% | 82% |
| 3mm | 34.0m | +31% | 76% |
| 1.6mm (legal) | 37.6m | +44% | 69% |
The Cliff Effect Varies by Tyre Type
The 4mm cliff applies differently depending on your starting tread depth:
| Tyre Type | New Depth | At 4mm, You've Used... | Replace At | Why |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Passenger/Touring | 7-8mm | ~57% of tread | 3mm | Still adequate wet grip at 3mm |
| Performance/Summer | 6-7mm | ~50% of tread | 3mm | Shallower start, but compound optimised |
| Highway Terrain (HT) | 9-10mm | ~67% of tread | 3-4mm | Larger contact patches need deeper grooves |
| All-Terrain (AT) | 12-14mm | ~71% of tread | 4mm | Loses off-road capability; wet grip deteriorates faster |
| Mud-Terrain (MT) | 15-18mm | ~78% of tread | 4mm | Deep lugs become ineffective; mud-clearing fails |
If you drive an AT or MT tyre to 3mm like a passenger tyre, you're getting worse wet grip than a worn passenger tyre (their compounds aren't optimised for sealed roads) while having lost your off-road capability. At 4mm, AT/MT tyres are past their useful life. Replace earlier, not later.
Why 4mm is the Critical Threshold
Look at the pattern: From 8mm to 4mm, you lose about 5% grip per mm. Below 4mm, degradation accelerates to 7-8% per mm. This is the "cliff" — the point where your tyres start losing grip exponentially faster.
The maths is brutal: At 100 km/h on a wet road, that 44% increase translates to an extra 18+ metres of stopping distance. That's 4 car lengths. At highway speed, you simply won't stop in time for something you would have avoided with new tyres.
Water Evacuation Rate by Tread Depth
A new passenger tyre can evacuate approximately 15 litres of water per second at 80 km/h. A new AT can do 20+ litres (deeper grooves). Here's how capacity changes:
- New (any type): 100% water evacuation capacity for that tyre design
- 4mm: 55-65% capacity — danger zone entry for passenger; replace territory for AT/MT
- 3mm: ~45% capacity — replace passenger tyres here
- 1.6mm: ~25% capacity — hydroplaning risk severe regardless of tyre type
📚 Sources: Continental Contidrom Test Track, ADAC Tyre Tests, TyreReviews 2024 AT Comparison, UltimateBrakingPhysics v3.5.1 (calibrated to 285 validated real-world tests)
6. Tread Pattern Types
Not all tyre treads are created equal — and the pattern affects how you can rotate them, mount them, and what they're best at. Understanding the three main pattern types helps you make better buying decisions and avoid costly mounting mistakes.
Pattern Types at a Glance
Detailed Comparison: Pros, Cons & Best Uses
Rotation Restrictions by Pattern Type
| Pattern Type | Front-to-Back | Side-to-Side | Cross Pattern |
|---|---|---|---|
| Symmetrical | ✓ Yes | ✓ Yes | ✓ Yes |
| Asymmetrical | ✓ Yes | ✓ Yes (keep outside out) | ✓ Yes |
| Directional | ✓ Same side only | ✗ No (unless remounted) | ✗ No |
- Directional: Look for an arrow on the sidewall indicating rotation direction
- Asymmetrical: Look for "OUTSIDE" or "INSIDE" markings on the sidewall
- Symmetrical: No directional arrows or inside/outside markings
🔄 Real-World Example: Directional Tyres Mounted Backwards
What went wrong: A customer had directional tyres fitted at a budget workshop. The fitter didn't notice the rotation arrows and mounted two tyres backwards. Result: the V-shaped tread was pumping water into the contact patch instead of evacuating it. The customer complained of poor wet grip and unusual noise — and couldn't figure out why until they came to us.
The physics: Directional treads are designed to push water outward like a pump. Mounted backwards, they do the opposite — reducing wet grip by up to 15% and increasing hydroplaning risk significantly.
How to avoid this: Check the sidewall arrows after any fitting. The arrow should point in the direction of forward travel. Our Tread Pattern Guide shows exactly what to look for.
Know your tread pattern before rotating. Directional tyres can only go front-to-back on the same side. Asymmetrical tyres must keep their "outside" facing out. Symmetrical tyres have full rotation flexibility. Check sidewall markings before any rotation or mounting.
🔧 Helpful tools: Tread Pattern Guide • Professional Fitting
7. Tyre Age: Reading the DOT Code
Here's something many drivers don't know: tyres have a use-by date. Even with perfect tread, rubber degrades over time — especially in sunny climates like Gisborne, Hawke's Bay, or Nelson. UV exposure, ozone, and simple chemistry cause the rubber to harden and crack.
🔍 Decoding the DOT Date Code
Find the 4-digit code on your tyre sidewall, usually after "DOT" and a series of letters/numbers:
This tyre was manufactured in week 25 (mid-June) of 2024. The last 4 digits are what matters for age — "2524" means week 25, year 2024.
Age Guidelines
| Age | Status | Action |
|---|---|---|
| 0-5 years | Normal service life | Regular inspections, monitor tread |
| 5-6 years | Aging — increased risk | Professional inspection, check for cracking |
| 6-10 years | Consider replacement | Professional inspection recommended |
| 10+ years | Replace immediately | Do not drive on tyres this old, regardless of appearance |
📉 The Science of Rubber Aging
Research from the MDPI Sustainability Study 2023 found a strong correlation (r = -0.777) between tyre age and grip performance. The degradation isn't linear — it accelerates over time as rubber oxidation compounds.
Grip Loss by Age (MDPI Study Data)
| Age | Degradation Rate | Cumulative Grip Loss | Recommendation |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0-2 years | ~1% per year | 2% | ✓ Normal service |
| 3-4 years | ~2.5% per year | 7% | ✓ Monitor condition |
| 5-6 years | ~4% per year | 15% | ⚠️ Inspect closely |
| 7-8 years | ~6% per year | 27% | ⚠️ Plan replacement |
| 9-10 years | ~7% per year | 41% | ❌ Replace now |
🌡️ Hot Climate Penalty: +35% Degradation
If your vehicle is regularly parked outside in sunny regions like Hawke's Bay, Gisborne, Nelson, or Marlborough, apply a 35% penalty to the degradation rate. A 6-year-old tyre in Napier has effectively aged like an 8-year-old tyre in Southland.
UV radiation breaks down the polymer chains in rubber, while ozone (higher in urban areas) attacks the double carbon bonds. Together, they cause the "dry rot" cracking you see on old tyres — often starting in sidewalls before tread.
Tyres on vehicles parked outside in sunny regions age faster due to UV degradation. If your car sits in a driveway in Tauranga, Napier, or Nelson getting UV exposure daily, check age more carefully. Garage-kept vehicles may see slower degradation. Even unused tyres age — a "new" tyre that sat in a warehouse for 3 years is already 3 years old.
📅 Real-World Example: 12-Year-Old Spare Tyre Failure
What went wrong: A driver got a puncture on State Highway 1 near Huntly. No problem — they had a full-size spare. Except the spare had been sitting in the boot since 2011. DOT code: 0811 (week 8, 2011). The rubber looked fine but had hardened internally. When they hit 80 km/h, the 12-year-old spare delaminated — the tread separated from the carcass. They ended up on the shoulder waiting for a tow.
The science: After 10 years, rubber loses up to 41% of its grip due to oxidation. The compounds become brittle, bonds weaken, and structural integrity fails — even if the tyre "looks" fine.
The lesson: Check your spare's DOT code today. If it's over 6 years old, replace it before you need it. Find a replacement — a spare tyre is cheap insurance.
Decode Your Tyre's DOT Code Instantly
Enter your DOT code and we'll tell you exactly when your tyre was manufactured, which factory made it, and whether it's still within safe service life. Works for any tyre brand worldwide.
Use DOT Code Calculator →Tyres age even when not used. Check the DOT code — if they're over 6 years old, inspect closely for cracking and hardening. Over 10 years = replace no matter how much tread remains. This applies to spare tyres too.
🔧 Helpful tools: DOT Code Calculator • Shop Replacement Tyres • Age Check Service
8. Rotate Tyres Regularly
Front tyres wear faster than rears on most vehicles — they carry more weight (engine), do the steering, and handle most of the braking. Regular rotation evens out the wear, extending total tyre life by 20-30%.
Rotation Patterns by Drive Type
🔄 Standard Rotation Patterns
Most service intervals (10,000-15,000 km) align well with rotation schedules. Ask your mechanic to include tyre rotation with your regular service — it's quick and often included in the price. If not, it's usually only $20-30 extra and saves you much more in extended tyre life.
🔄 Real-World Example: Skipped Rotations = Two Tyres Wasted
What went wrong: A Mazda CX-5 owner in Tauranga never rotated their tyres over 60,000 km. Being front-wheel drive, the front tyres did all the work — steering, acceleration, and most of the braking. By 45,000 km, the fronts were down to 2mm while the rears still had 5mm. They had to replace the fronts early, then 15,000 km later the rears wore out. Total: bought 8 tyres instead of 4.
What should have happened: Rotate every 8,000-10,000 km. This spreads the wear evenly across all four tyres, meaning they all reach replacement depth at roughly the same time. You buy one set of 4, not two sets of 2.
The maths: Rotation adds 20-30% tyre life. On a $600 set of tyres, that's $120-180 saved. The rotation costs $20-40. Net saving: $80-160 per set, plus you get even wear and consistent handling.
Rotate every 8,000-10,000 km. Check your tyre type first — directional tyres can only go front-to-back, not side-to-side. Easy to combine with regular servicing for convenience.
🔧 Helpful tools: Tread Pattern Guide • Rotation Service
9. Balance and Alignment
Balance and alignment are different things, but both affect tyre wear and driving comfort. Understanding the difference helps you describe symptoms to your mechanic — and avoid paying for work you don't need.
Wheel Balance
Balancing ensures weight is evenly distributed around the wheel. An imbalanced wheel vibrates at speed — usually felt through the steering wheel (front wheels) or the seat (rear wheels).
| Symptom | Likely Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Vibration at 80-100 km/h | Wheel imbalance | Rebalance wheels ($15-25 per wheel) |
| Vibration that comes and goes | Weight fallen off, or tyre issue | Inspect and rebalance |
| Cupped/scalloped wear pattern | Long-term imbalance | Rebalance + may need new tyres |
Wheel Alignment
Alignment refers to the angle of your wheels relative to the vehicle and road. Misalignment causes the car to pull to one side and wears tyres unevenly — often on just one edge.
The Three Alignment Angles
Toe
Whether wheels point inward (toe-in) or outward (toe-out) when viewed from above. Incorrect toe causes rapid, feathered edge wear and affects straight-line stability.
Camber
The inward or outward tilt of wheels when viewed from the front. Negative camber (top tilted in) wears inner edges; positive camber wears outer edges.
Castor
The forward or backward tilt of the steering axis. Affects steering feel and returnability. Incorrect castor causes wandering and poor straight-line tracking — but doesn't directly cause tyre wear.
Most alignment shops adjust all three angles. Castor is often overlooked by drivers because it doesn't cause obvious tyre wear like toe and camber — but it's critical for how your car feels to drive. If your steering feels "loose" or doesn't return to centre after corners, castor may be the issue.
| Symptom | Likely Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Vehicle pulls to one side | Toe or camber misalignment | Wheel alignment ($80-150) |
| Steering wheel off-centre | Alignment out | Wheel alignment |
| One-sided tyre wear | Camber misalignment | Alignment + new tyres if badly worn |
| Feathered edge wear | Toe misalignment | Wheel alignment |
Our roads are rough on alignment. Hit a pothole in Northland, clip a kerb in the Pak'nSave carpark, or drive gravel roads to your favourite fishing spot — all can knock alignment out. If you notice pulling or uneven wear after any significant impact, get it checked before it destroys your tyres.
🕳️ Real-World Example: Pothole Damage Ignored
What went wrong: A driver hit a significant pothole on Great South Road. The car drove "a bit different" afterwards but seemed okay. Three months later: both front tyres worn on the inner edges only — down to 1mm on the inside while the outside still had 5mm. The pothole had knocked the alignment out by 3 degrees. Cost: 2 new tyres ($280) plus alignment ($120) = $400.
What should have happened: After any significant impact, get alignment checked immediately. A $120 alignment check would have saved $280 in premature tyre replacement. The maths is simple.
Warning signs: Steering pulls to one side, steering wheel off-centre, one shoulder wearing faster than the other, unusual road noise. Any of these after a pothole hit = get alignment checked.
Balance = vibration fix. Alignment = pulling/wear fix. Check balance when you notice vibration at speed. Check alignment when the car pulls to one side or tyres wear unevenly. Both should be checked after any significant impact.
🔧 Helpful tools: Balance & Alignment Service • Book a Check
10. Wheel & Rim Care
Wheels are often overlooked in tyre care, but damaged or poorly maintained wheels cause air leaks, vibration, and can even fail catastrophically. Here's what to check and when to be concerned.
Wheel Inspection Checklist
| Issue | What to Look For | Action Required |
|---|---|---|
| Cracks | Any visible crack anywhere on wheel | REPLACE IMMEDIATELY — not repairable |
| Bends/Dents | Visible distortion, especially on rim edge | Professional assessment — may need replacement |
| Curb Damage | Gouges, scrapes on rim face or edge | Minor = cosmetic. Edge damage = check for leaks |
| Corrosion | Rust, pitting, or flaking on steel wheels | Clean and treat, or replace if structural |
| Bolt Holes | Elongated or damaged holes | REPLACE — bolts won't seat properly |
🧼 Wheel and Tyre Cleaning
Regular cleaning removes brake dust, road grime, and salt that can damage both wheels and tyres over time. Here's the safe way to do it:
1. Rinse with low-pressure water to remove loose debris
2. Apply pH-neutral wheel cleaner (avoid acidic cleaners on alloys)
3. Use a soft brush or microfibre cloth — not wire brushes
4. Rinse thoroughly and dry
5. Apply tyre dressing if desired (use solvent-free products with UV blockers)
Frequency: Clean wheels every 2-4 weeks, or more often if you notice heavy brake dust buildup.
Never use a pressure washer directly on tyre sidewalls. High-pressure water can penetrate the rubber and damage the internal structure, leading to potential blowouts. Keep pressure washers at least 30cm from tyres and avoid sustained blasts. The same applies to wheel centres — high pressure can force water past seals and into wheel bearings.
Wheel Nut Torque Specifications
Over-tightening warps brake rotors and can strip threads. Under-tightening leads to wheels coming loose. Always use a torque wrench for final tightening.
| Vehicle Type | Typical Torque (Nm) | Typical Torque (ft-lb) |
|---|---|---|
| Steel wheels (passenger) | 90-110 Nm | 66-81 ft-lb |
| Alloy wheels (passenger) | 100-120 Nm | 74-89 ft-lb |
| Light trucks / SUVs | 120-180 Nm | 89-133 ft-lb |
After fitting new tyres, re-check torque after 50-100 km of driving. Wheel nuts can settle as components bed in. This is especially important after tyre shops use impact wrenches for initial fitting.
Tightening Sequence (5-Lug)
Always tighten in a star pattern to ensure even pressure: 1 → 3 → 5 → 2 → 4 (numbering clockwise from top). This prevents the wheel from cocking to one side.
🔩 Real-World Example: Wheel Nuts Not Re-Torqued
What went wrong: A customer had new tyres fitted at a budget workshop and drove off. 200 km later on the Kaimai Ranges, they heard a rattling noise. One wheel had worked loose — three of five nuts were finger-tight, one had fallen off completely. They limped to a garage where proper torque was applied, but the wheel studs were damaged and needed replacing. Close call.
What should have happened: Always re-torque wheel nuts after 50-100 km. The nuts bed in as you drive and can loosen. Many good workshops offer a free re-torque check — use it.
Our policy: At Tyre Dispatch, we torque to spec, remind you to come back for re-torque, and check for free. It takes 5 minutes and could save your life.
Inspect wheels regularly, especially after impacts. Any crack = replace immediately. Use correct torque specs and always re-torque after new tyre fitting. Star pattern for tightening, not circular.
🔧 Helpful tools: Professional Fitting • Free Re-Torque Check
11. Types of Tyres for NZ Conditions
Choosing the right tyre for your vehicle and driving conditions makes a significant difference to safety, comfort, and running costs. Here's what's available and where each type shines.
🗺️ Regional Recommendations
Urban Auckland/Wellington/Christchurch: Passenger touring or all-season for most drivers.
Rural North Island (Waikato, Bay of Plenty, Taranaki): All-terrain works well for mixed sealed/gravel driving.
Farming/Lifestyle (anywhere): All-terrain or mud-terrain depending on conditions.
Hot regions (Hawke's Bay, Gisborne, Nelson): Summer tyres offer maximum dry grip.
🏔️ Off-Road Pressure Adjustments
For serious off-road driving, adjusting tyre pressure dramatically improves traction. Lower pressure increases the contact patch, allowing the tyre to conform to terrain. Here's the guide:
| Terrain | Recommended PSI | Why It Works |
|---|---|---|
| On-Road (Normal) | 32-38 PSI | Standard placard pressure for fuel economy and handling |
| Gravel / Forest Tracks | 28-32 PSI | Slight reduction improves comfort and traction on loose surfaces |
| Rocks / Rocky Terrain | 22-28 PSI (150-193 kPa) | Tyre conforms to rocks, reducing puncture risk and improving grip |
| Mud | 20-25 PSI (138-172 kPa) | Wider footprint prevents sinking; clearer tread self-cleans better |
| Sand / Beach | 18-22 PSI (125-150 kPa) | Maximum footprint prevents digging in; "floats" on soft surface |
Low pressure is for low-speed off-road use only (under 40 km/h). Driving at highway speeds on deflated tyres causes extreme heat buildup, sidewall damage, and blowout risk. Always carry a portable compressor (12V units from $50-150) and re-inflate to road pressure before hitting tarmac. The "airing down" rule: if you deflate, you must have the means to re-inflate.
🆕 New Tyre Break-In Period
New tyres aren't at full performance straight out of the box. They have a thin layer of mould release compound on the surface and need time to develop their optimal contact pattern.
| Tyre Type | Break-In Speed | Break-In Distance |
|---|---|---|
| Summer / Touring Tyres | 80 km/h maximum | First 100 km |
| Winter / All-Season Tyres | 60 km/h maximum | First 200 km |
| High-Performance Tyres | 80 km/h, avoid hard cornering | First 150 km |
During break-in: avoid hard braking, aggressive acceleration, and sharp cornering. This allows the mould release agents to wear off and the tread to develop proper road contact. After break-in, your tyres will deliver their full grip potential.
📊 AT vs HT: Real Braking Test Results
Choosing the wrong 4x4 tyre costs you metres. Here's what TyreReviews' 2024 controlled tests revealed:
| Tyre | Wet Braking @ 80 km/h | Gap vs Best |
|---|---|---|
| Continental CrossContact HT (road-focused) | 32.5m | — |
| Falken Wildpeak AT3W (best AT) | 37.7m | +5.2m (+16%) |
| BFGoodrich KO2 (popular AT) | ~40m | +7.5m (+23%) |
| Loder AT1 (worst AT) | 49.0m | +16.5m (+51%) |
The takeaway: Not all AT tyres are created equal. The best AT (Falken AT3W) is only 16% behind a road tyre in wet braking — acceptable for the off-road capability you gain. The worst AT adds 16.5 metres to your stopping distance. That's 4 car lengths.
For 4x4 owners who mostly drive sealed roads: Consider an HT tyre for your daily driver and keep an AT set for genuine off-road trips.
🌡️ Temperature and Tyre Compounds: The 7°C Rule
Your tyre's compound is engineered for a specific temperature range. Outside that range, the rubber either hardens (losing grip) or becomes too soft (accelerated wear). This is why the "7°C rule" exists for summer tyres.
📊 Compound Performance by Temperature
| Temperature | Summer Tyre | All-Season | Winter Tyre |
|---|---|---|---|
| -10°C | 50% ❌ | 78% | 100% ✓ |
| 0°C | 70% | 90% | 100% ✓ |
| 7°C (threshold) | 85% | 95% | 98% |
| 20°C | 100% ✓ | 100% ✓ | 90% |
| 35°C | 100% ✓ | 95% | 80% |
For NZ: Most regions stay above 7°C year-round, so summer or all-season tyres work fine. However, early morning winter driving in Rotorua, Hamilton, Canterbury Plains, or Central Otago can dip below 7°C — your summer tyres won't be at full grip until they warm up.
📚 Source: UltimateBrakingPhysics temperature-compound model, Bosch Automotive Handbook
❄️ Winter Ratings Explained: 3PMSF vs M+S
You'll see "M+S" (Mud and Snow) and the "3PMSF" (Three-Peak Mountain Snowflake) symbol on tyres claiming winter capability. They're very different — and one is essentially meaningless.
- ❌ No testing required
- Self-declared by manufacturer
- Based on tread geometry only (≥25% void ratio)
- Provides ~70% of true winter tyre traction
- "Any manufacturer who thinks their tyre is capable can use it" — USTMA
- ✓ Independently tested (ASTM F1805)
- Must achieve ≥110% traction vs reference tyre
- Tested on medium-packed snow at <4°C
- Actual certification with performance standard
- But note: Only tests acceleration, not braking or ice
Even 3PMSF certification has gaps: it only tests acceleration traction on snow — not braking, cornering, or ice grip. A tyre can pass 3PMSF and still be poor at stopping on snow. For true alpine driving (Queenstown, Wanaka, Arthur's Pass), look for dedicated winter tyres with good reviews, not just the symbol.
Some drivers try to save money by fitting winter or all-season tyres to just the front (drive) axle. This seems logical — the front does the steering and (in FWD) the driving. It's actually extremely dangerous.
The problem appears when cornering: your front tyres grip while your rears slide. This causes sudden oversteer — the back of the car swings out. Independent testing shows this can happen at normal cornering speeds, not just at the limit. The car becomes unpredictable and difficult to control.
The rule: Always fit tyres in sets of 4. If you can only afford 2, put them on the rear axle (yes, even on front-wheel-drive) to maintain stability. But really — don't mix seasonal tyres on the same vehicle.
🛻 Real-World Example: Wrong Tyre for the Job
What went wrong: A Hilux owner in Auckland fitted aggressive mud-terrain tyres because they "looked cool." The reality: 95% of their driving was highway commuting. Result: louder road noise (constant hum at 100 km/h), 20% worse fuel economy, and the tyres wore out in 35,000 km instead of the 60,000 km highway-terrains would have lasted. Plus, their wet braking was significantly worse — mud-terrains are designed for off-road traction, not sealed-road grip.
What should have happened: Be honest about your actual driving. If you're 90%+ on sealed roads, highway-terrain or all-terrain tyres are the smart choice. They're quieter, more efficient, last longer, and grip better on tarmac.
The right choice: Our All-Terrain range offers the best of both worlds for occasional off-road use. For serious mud work, check our Mud-Terrain collection — but know what you're signing up for.
🏆 Our Recommended Brands
We've done the research so you don't have to. These are the brands we trust for quality, value, and real-world performance:
🌟 Anchee Tyres
Partnered with Yokohama technology. ISO 17025 certified laboratory testing. Exceptional wet grip at mid-range prices. Our top seller for passenger and SUV applications.
🦅 Predator Tyres
USA-engineered with 55,000-mile warranties. Premium performance without premium prices. Excellent for SUVs, utes, and drivers who want peace of mind.
Why we recommend these: We're exclusive NZ distributors for both brands. That means better pricing, direct support, and we stand behind every tyre we sell. Read why we chose these brands →
Match tyres to your actual driving. Most Kiwis do fine with all-season or touring tyres. Don't fit mud-terrains if you never leave the tarmac — they're louder, less grippy on sealed roads, and wear faster.
🔧 Shop by type: Passenger • All-Terrain • Mud-Terrain • Highway-Terrain • High Performance • Commercial
12. Spare Tyres: What You Need to Know
Different vehicles come with different spare tyre solutions — and each has implications for what you can do when you get a flat on the road to Raglan or the back of beyond.
| Type | Speed Limit | Distance Limit | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Full-size spare | Normal | Unlimited | Best option — matches your regular tyres, can be rotated in |
| Space-saver (biscuit) | 80 km/h | ~80 km | Emergency use only — get to a tyre shop ASAP |
| Tyre repair kit | 80 km/h | ~100 km | Foam sealant + compressor — temporary fix for small punctures only |
| Run-flat tyres | 80 km/h | ~80 km | Drive on deflated tyre to reach help — must replace after run-flat use |
| Seal tyres | Normal | Unlimited* | Self-sealing compound fixes small punctures automatically — *sidewall damage still requires replacement |
🛡️ Runflat vs Seal Technology: Which Is Better?
Modern vehicles increasingly come without spare tyres. Instead, manufacturers offer two alternative technologies: run-flat tyres and seal tyres. Each solves the puncture problem differently.
| Feature | Run-Flat Tyres | Seal Tyres |
|---|---|---|
| How it works | Reinforced sidewalls support vehicle weight when deflated | Sticky compound inside tread seals punctures instantly |
| Puncture handling | Drive up to 80km at 80km/h after complete deflation | Seals automatically — often you won't notice the puncture |
| Multiple punctures | One use only — must replace after run-flat event | Can seal hundreds of small punctures over tyre life |
| Sidewall damage | ✅ Still driveable to safety | ❌ Deflates like normal tyre |
| Ride comfort | Harsher — stiff sidewalls transmit more road noise | Normal — performs like standard tyre |
| Handling | Can feel different — some drivers notice tramlining | Normal — no handling compromise |
| Weight | Heavier — affects fuel economy slightly | Slightly heavier than standard |
| Repair options | Most shops won't repair run-flats | Repairable like normal tyres |
| Price | Premium — 20-40% more than standard | Moderate premium — 10-20% more |
| Common on | BMW, MINI, Mercedes (OE fitment) | Continental, Pirelli, Michelin ranges |
For most NZ drivers, seal tyres offer better everyday practicality. They handle the majority of punctures (small tread punctures) automatically while maintaining normal ride comfort and handling. Run-flats are better if you frequently drive remote areas where sidewall damage from rough roads is more likely — they guarantee you can reach help regardless of puncture type. If you have the boot space, a full-size spare remains the most versatile solution.
Important: Both technologies require a functioning TPMS (Tyre Pressure Monitoring System). With seal tyres, you might not feel a puncture — only TPMS will alert you. With run-flats, you won't feel the deflation — TPMS tells you to limit speed. If your TPMS warning light is on, get it checked before relying on either technology.
A flat spare is useless. Check pressure every few months — spares lose air just like regular tyres. Also check the DOT code — a spare that's been sitting in your boot for 12 years may not be safe to use even if it looks fine.
🚨 Real-World Example: Space-Saver at 110 km/h
What went wrong: A driver got a flat near Taupo and fitted the space-saver spare. The sticker said "80 km/h max" but they were in a hurry and figured it would be fine at 110 km/h on the open road. 20 km later, the space-saver overheated and delaminated. Now they had two damaged tyres and no spare, 50 km from the nearest town.
Why it happened: Space-savers have thinner sidewalls and are designed for low-speed, short-distance use only. At highway speeds, they overheat and fail. The 80 km/h limit isn't a suggestion — it's an engineering constraint.
The lesson: Know your spare type and respect the limits. If you're doing a lot of remote driving, consider upgrading to a full-size spare. Find a matching spare for your vehicle.
Know what spare you have. Space-savers and repair kits have strict speed and distance limits. Check spare pressure and age regularly. If you're heading remote (Coromandel, Northland, West Coast), a full-size spare is worth the peace of mind.
🔧 Helpful tools: PSI Calculator • Shop Spare Tyres
13. Tyre Storage
Whether you're storing a seasonal set of tyres or just keeping a spare in good condition, proper storage extends tyre life and prevents degradation. Here's how to do it right.
Storage Environment Requirements
| Factor | Requirement | Why It Matters |
|---|---|---|
| Location | Cool, dry, indoor | Heat and moisture accelerate degradation |
| Sunlight | Avoid direct UV exposure | UV causes rubber to crack and perish |
| Ozone sources | Away from electric motors | Motors produce ozone which damages rubber |
| Chemicals | Away from solvents, oils, fuels | Chemicals break down rubber compounds |
| Temperature | 15-25°C ideal | Extreme temps affect rubber properties |
Storage Methods
Even properly stored tyres degrade over time. Maximum recommended storage is 3 years. After that, have them professionally inspected before use. Remember — storage time counts toward the tyre's total age. A 3-year stored tyre is already 3 years old.
📦 Real-World Example: Flat-Spotted After Winter Storage
What went wrong: A classic car owner stored their vehicle for 6 months over winter. The car sat on the same spot without moving, tyres at normal pressure. When they drove it in spring, there was a severe vibration — the tyres had developed flat spots from the constant pressure on one point. The rubber had deformed permanently.
What should have happened: For long-term storage (over 1 month), either overinflate to maximum sidewall pressure, jack the vehicle up on stands to remove weight from the tyres, or move the vehicle slightly every few weeks to prevent flat-spotting.
The fix: Mild flat spots may work themselves out after 30+ km of driving. Severe flat spots require tyre replacement. Prevention is much cheaper than the cure.
Store in cool, dry, dark conditions. Unmounted tyres stand upright. Mounted tyres can stack. Clean before storage, inflate to max pressure. Check stored tyres before use — storage time counts toward total age.
🔧 Helpful tools: PSI Calculator • Storage Advice
14. Seasonal Considerations for NZ
New Zealand's climate is unique — we get hot, dry summers and cold, wet winters, but most of us never see snow unless we're heading to the ski fields. This affects tyre care differently than in places with true winter conditions.
Summer (December - February)
- Higher temperatures mean higher tyre pressures — check more frequently
- Hot tarmac in regions like Hawke's Bay, Gisborne, and Central Otago can stress older tyres
- Road trip season — inspect tyres before long journeys
- Heavy loads from camping gear — increase pressure per placard's "full load" spec
- If tyres overheat (hot to touch) — stop, park in shade, let cool naturally. Never pour water on hot tyres.
Winter (June - August)
- Wet roads across most of NZ — 3mm+ tread depth recommended
- Cold mornings drop tyre pressure — check more frequently
- Ski season — chains or winter tyres required for mountain roads
- Frost in inland areas (Rotorua, Hamilton, Canterbury) — allow extra braking distance
Check Today's Driving Conditions
Our Driving Safety Report uses live weather data to show how conditions affect braking distances, tyre grip, and safe following gaps — hour by hour for every NZ region.
Get Safety Report →❄️ Real-World Example: Summer Tyres on Coronet Peak Road
What went wrong: A Wellington family drove to Queenstown for a ski trip in July. Their car had standard summer tyres — fine for Wellington's mild winters. On Coronet Peak Road after fresh snow, they couldn't make it up the hill. The tyres had zero grip on the icy patches, even with chains fitted poorly. They blocked the road for 20 minutes until other drivers helped push them to the side.
What should have happened: Check road conditions before alpine travel. Summer tyres lose significant grip below 7°C, and on snow/ice they're nearly useless. For ski trips, either fit proper winter tyres (3PMSF rated) or hire a suitable vehicle locally.
The tools: Our Driving Safety Report shows real-time conditions by region. Check before any winter mountain trip. And if you need chains, practice fitting them at home before you're on a freezing mountain road at night.
NZ doesn't require seasonal tyre changes for most drivers. Good all-season or touring tyres work year-round. Focus on maintaining proper pressure as temperatures change, ensuring adequate tread for winter rain, and chains/winter tyres only for alpine driving.
🔧 Helpful tools: Live Driving Safety Report • Following Distance Guide • Braking Simulator
15. Emergency Procedures
Knowing how to respond to tyre emergencies can save your life. Here's what to do when things go wrong.
Blowout Handling
A blowout is sudden, violent, and terrifying — but survivable if you react correctly.
🚨 If a Tyre Blows Out
Puncture Response
| Type | Signs | Response |
|---|---|---|
| Slow leak | Gradual deflation over hours/days | Drive slowly to safe location or tyre shop. Don't remove the object — it's keeping air in. |
| Rapid deflation | Fast hissing, visible deflation | Pull over safely ASAP. Do not drive on flat — destroys tyre and rim. |
Overheating Response
If tyres feel hot to touch (you shouldn't be able to hold your hand on them) or you smell burning rubber:
- STOP safely as soon as possible
- Park in shade if available
- DO NOT pour water on hot tyres (causes damage)
- DO NOT deflate hot tyres
- ALLOW to cool naturally (30-60 minutes)
- INSPECT for damage after cooling
- Sidewall damage — REPLACE (no repair possible)
- Shoulder damage — REPLACE
- Punctures larger than 6mm — REPLACE
- Multiple close punctures — Consider replacement
- Run-flat used at zero pressure — MUST REPLACE
🚨 Real-World Example: Blowout on the Expressway — Correct Response
What happened: A driver experienced a rear tyre blowout at 100 km/h on the Waikato Expressway. Their instinct was to brake hard, but they'd read about blowout handling. Instead, they gripped the wheel firmly, gently accelerated to maintain control, kept the car straight, then gradually eased off the accelerator and steered to the shoulder.
The result: They stopped safely with no damage beyond the tyre. The alternative — braking hard — would likely have caused a spin or rollover, especially with a rear blowout.
The lesson: Counter-intuitive but critical: accelerate slightly, steer straight, then slow down gradually. Braking during a blowout can be fatal. The few seconds of doing the opposite of what feels natural can save your life.
Blowout: Don't brake, accelerate slightly, steer straight, then gradually slow. Punctures: Slow leaks can get you to help, rapid deflation = stop immediately. Never pour water on hot tyres. Sidewall damage = always replace.
🔧 Helpful tools: Brake Reaction Test • Safe Following Distance • Emergency Advice
16. Driving Habits That Destroy Tyres
Even the best tyres can be ruined by bad driving habits. Here's what to avoid if you want your tyres to last.
| Bad Habit | Why It's Damaging | The Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Hard braking | Flat spots, excessive heat, faster wear | Anticipate stops, brake progressively |
| Fast cornering | Scrubs tread, stresses sidewalls | Slow down for corners, especially wet |
| Hitting kerbs | Sidewall damage, internal breaks | Take corners wider, park carefully |
| Overloading | Overheating, sidewall stress, blowout risk | Know your vehicle's limits, adjust pressure |
| Ignoring potholes | Impact damage, alignment issues | Slow down for rough roads, avoid if possible |
| Burnouts/wheelspin | Instant flat spots, excessive wear | Just don't — save it for the race track |
- Accelerate and brake smoothly
- Slow down for corners and rough surfaces
- Avoid potholes and kerbs where possible
- Don't exceed load ratings — know your vehicle's limits
- Check pressure monthly and before long trips
- Address wear issues early (alignment, balance)
🚗 Real-World Example: Same Tyres, Completely Different Life
The comparison: Two identical Hiluxes, same tyres (Anchee AC858 All-Terrains), same region (BOP). Driver A: smooth acceleration, anticipates braking, avoids kerbs. Driver B: accelerates hard from lights, brakes late, mounts kerbs when parking.
The results: Driver A got 68,000 km from their tyres with even wear. Driver B needed replacement at 35,000 km due to uneven wear, shoulder damage, and one tyre with a bulge from kerb impact. Same tyres, nearly double the life from smooth driving.
The maths: At $200 per tyre, Driver A spent $200 per 17,000 km. Driver B spent $200 per 8,750 km — twice the tyre cost per km. Over 100,000 km, that's $600 wasted on tyres alone, plus fuel and brake wear.
How you drive matters as much as what tyres you have. Smooth inputs, sensible speeds, and avoiding impacts will extend tyre life significantly. Aggressive driving can halve tyre lifespan.
🔧 Helpful tools: Brake Reaction Test • Following Distance Guide • Braking Simulator
17. Maintenance Schedule
Here's a practical maintenance schedule to keep your tyres in top condition. Print this out and stick it on your garage wall.
Detailed Checklist by Frequency
| Frequency | What to Check |
|---|---|
| Daily (before driving) | Quick visual scan — no obvious flat, no visible damage, all wheel nuts present |
| Weekly | Check for embedded objects, sidewall damage, uneven wear, valve cap presence |
| Monthly | Measure pressure (cold), check tread depth, detailed damage inspection, spare tyre pressure |
| Quarterly | Professional inspection, rotation if due, alignment check if symptoms present |
| Annual | Full alignment, balance check, suspension inspection, complete tyre report |
📋 Real-World Example: The Maintenance Log That Paid Off
What went right: A customer kept a simple maintenance log in their glovebox. Monthly pressure checks, tread depth notes, rotation dates. When they noticed one corner wearing faster than the others, they caught it early — misalignment from a pothole the month before. Quick alignment fix cost $120 and saved the tyre.
Compare to: Another customer with the same car, same tyres, no log. They only noticed the uneven wear when it was severe — inner edge down to 1mm while outer had 4mm. Needed two new tyres ($300) plus alignment ($120). $300 wasted because they didn't catch it early.
The simple system: Take a photo of your tyres each month. Compare to previous photos. Spot changes before they become expensive problems. Our free check can assess any concerns you notice.
Monthly pressure checks are the minimum. Weekly visual inspections catch problems early. Combine rotation and professional checks with regular vehicle servicing for convenience.
🔧 Helpful tools: PSI Calculator • Book Service • Free Advice
18. Responsible Tyre Disposal in NZ
Every year, New Zealand discards around 6.5 million tyres. Until recently, only 40% were recycled — the rest ended up in stockpiles, farms, or landfills. That's changed. The Tyrewise scheme, which launched in March 2024, is transforming how NZ handles end-of-life tyres — and we're proud to be part of it.
I was fortunate to be involved with Tyrewise from early on and even appeared in their launch video. Responsible tyre disposal isn't just a legal requirement for us — it's something we genuinely believe in. When you buy tyres from Tyre Dispatch, you're supporting a business that takes end-of-life responsibility seriously. The stewardship fee on every tyre goes directly toward ensuring those tyres get recycled properly, not dumped in a paddock somewhere.
How the Tyrewise Stewardship Fee Works
| What | Details |
|---|---|
| Fee Amount | $6.65 + GST for standard passenger tyres (varies by size/type) |
| When Charged | Included in every new tyre sold — loose or on vehicles |
| What It Covers | Collection, transport, and processing of end-of-life tyres |
| Free Disposal | Leave old tyres with registered fitters when replacing, or drop up to 5 at public collection sites — no charge |
What Happens to Recycled Tyres?
How to Dispose of Your Old Tyres
✓ Free Options
- Don't dump tyres illegally — It's an offence with significant fines
- Don't burn tyres — Toxic fumes harm health and environment
- Don't bury tyres — They don't decompose and can leach chemicals
- Don't stockpile on farms — Creates fire hazards and pest habitats
♻️ Real-World Example: From Waste Problem to Resource
The old way: A rural property in Waikato had accumulated 200+ old tyres over decades — some from farm machinery, some from old vehicles. They sat in a pile, breeding mosquitoes and creating a fire hazard. Removing them would have cost hundreds in disposal fees.
The new way: After Tyrewise launched, the landowner contacted a registered collector. The tyres were removed at no cost (because the stewardship fee now funds collection). Those tyres are now crumb rubber, probably in a playground or road surface somewhere.
The lesson: The stewardship fee you pay on new tyres funds proper disposal — including legacy stockpiles. It's a genuine circular economy solution, not just a tax.
Learn More About the Stewardship Fee
We've explained exactly what the Tyrewise stewardship fee is, where the money goes, and how it affects your tyre purchase.
Stewardship Fee Explained →The stewardship fee on every new tyre funds proper disposal. Leave old tyres with us for free when you buy replacements. Never dump, burn, or bury tyres — proper recycling turns them into useful products like road surfaces and playground materials.
🔧 Helpful links: Stewardship Fee Info • Tyrewise Official Site
19. 🆘 NZ Resources & Helplines
When things go wrong on the road, knowing who to call — and what to do — can make all the difference. Here's everything you need for tyre-related emergencies in New Zealand.
| Emergency Services (Police/Fire/Ambulance) | 111 |
| *STAR (Non-Emergency Police) | *555 |
| AA Roadside Assistance | 0800 500 222 |
| State Insurance Roadside | 0800 800 800 |
| Tower Insurance Roadside | 0800 808 808 |
| Healthline (Medical Advice) | 0800 611 116 |
🚗 What To Do In Specific Emergencies
⚡ Crashed Into a Power Pole
CRITICAL: STAY IN YOUR VEHICLE
- Do NOT get out — downed power lines can electrify the ground around your vehicle
- Call 111 — tell them you've hit a power pole and may have live wires
- Turn off your engine but stay inside with seatbelt on
- Wait for power company to confirm lines are de-energised
- If fire breaks out: Jump clear (don't step out) — land with feet together, hop away in small jumps
Why hop? Electricity spreads through the ground in waves. Walking normally creates a circuit between your feet. Hopping keeps your feet together, preventing this.
🚙 Crashed Into a Ditch
- Check yourself and passengers for injuries
- Turn off engine and turn on hazard lights
- Exit safely — use uphill door if on a slope
- Move away from the vehicle if it smells of fuel
- Call 111 if anyone is injured or trapped
- Call AA (0800 500 222) for recovery if no injuries
- Don't try to drive out if the vehicle is at a steep angle — you risk rollover
Insurance tip: Take photos before the tow truck arrives. Document vehicle position, any damage, and road conditions.
🔥 Engine Fire or Smoke
- Pull over immediately — don't keep driving hoping it goes away
- Turn off ignition — this cuts fuel supply
- Get everyone out and move at least 30 metres away
- Call 111 — fire spreads fast, don't try to fight it yourself
- Do NOT open the bonnet — oxygen feeds fires, opening it can cause flashback
- If you have a fire extinguisher: Spray through the grille, not by opening the bonnet
Prevention: Burning smell or smoke from engine bay? Pull over immediately. Overheating can cause fires — watch your temperature gauge.
💨 Multiple Tyre Failure (2+ Tyres)
Extremely rare, but can happen from road debris or severe underinflation:
- Grip steering firmly — vehicle will pull and may be hard to control
- Do NOT brake suddenly — ease off accelerator gradually
- Get off the road as far as safely possible
- Turn on hazards immediately
- Do NOT attempt to drive — even 100 metres will destroy rims
- Call AA or tow service — you need a flatbed truck
Why it happens: Usually severe underinflation + heat + load. One blowout often causes debris that damages another. Also caused by driving over sharp debris fields.
🔋 Battery Won't Start the Car
Not directly tyre-related, but a common roadside issue:
- Try again — sometimes it's a loose connection
- Check lights/accessories — if they work dimly, battery is flat; if nothing works, check terminals
- Jump start: Connect red to positive (+), black to negative (−) on GOOD battery, then black to metal engine block on dead car (not battery terminal)
- Run the good car for 2-3 minutes, then try starting dead car
- If it starts: Drive for 20+ minutes to recharge, or go straight to battery shop
AA members: Call 0800 500 222 — they'll jump start you or replace the battery on the spot.
⛽ How To Use Servo Air Pumps & Compressors
| Equipment | How To Use | Tips |
|---|---|---|
|
Servo Air Pump (Free or $1-2 at petrol stations) |
1. Set target PSI on machine 2. Remove valve cap 3. Press nozzle firmly onto valve 4. Machine beeps when target reached 5. Replace valve cap |
• Most auto-stop at target • Check all 4 tyres + spare • BP, Z, Mobil have free air |
|
12V Portable Compressor ($30-150 from auto stores) |
1. Plug into 12V socket (cigarette lighter) 2. Attach hose to tyre valve 3. Turn on and watch gauge 4. Turn off at target pressure 5. Disconnect and replace cap |
• Essential for off-road trips • Let cool between tyres • Store in boot permanently |
|
Foot Pump (Manual backup, $20-40) |
1. Connect hose to valve 2. Pump with foot — watch gauge 3. Stop at target pressure 4. Disconnect and replace cap |
• No power needed • Takes 5-10 mins per tyre • Good emergency backup |
🛞 Spare Tyre Types & Repair Kits Explained
| Type | How It Works | Limits | After Use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Full-Size Spare | Identical to your regular tyres. Jack up car, swap wheel. | None — drive normally | Replace when worn like any tyre |
| Space-Saver (Temporary) | Smaller, thinner tyre. Jack up, swap wheel. Usually stored under boot floor. |
80 km/h max speed ~80 km distance |
Replace damaged tyre ASAP, return space-saver to boot |
| Run-Flat Tyres | Reinforced sidewalls support car when flat. Keep driving to safety. |
80 km/h max ~80 km distance |
MUST replace — internal structure damaged even if tyre looks fine |
|
Tyre Repair Kit (Sealant + Compressor) |
Inject sealant through valve, then inflate with compressor. Seals small punctures. |
Tread punctures only Under 6mm hole ~100 km distance |
Get professional repair or replacement within 100km. Sealant may mean tyre can't be properly repaired. |
|
Plug Kit (DIY external plugs) |
Insert rubber plug into puncture from outside. Requires reamer and plug tool. | Temporary fix only Tread area only |
Get proper internal patch repair ASAP — plugs are not permanent |
Remote/rural driving: Full-size spare + 12V compressor. Space-savers fail on gravel and have no margin for error on long distances.
City driving: Space-saver or repair kit is usually fine — you're never far from a tyre shop.
Modern cars without spares: Keep a portable compressor and plug kit in your boot. Know your run-flat limits if fitted.
🔧 WOF Booking & Vehicle Inspection
| Provider | Website | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| VTNZ | vtnz.co.nz | Nationwide, online booking, WOF + CoF |
| AA | aa.co.nz | AA centres nationwide, member discounts |
| VINZ | vinz.co.nz | Vehicle inspection, WOF, CoF |
| Local Garages | Search "WOF near me" | Many local mechanics offer WOF — often cheaper |
🕐 24-Hour & Emergency Tyre Services
When you need help outside business hours:
| Service | Coverage | Contact |
|---|---|---|
| AA Roadside Assistance | Nationwide — can fit spare, tow to tyre shop, jump starts | 0800 500 222 |
| Your Insurance Roadside | Check your policy — many include roadside assist | Check your insurance card |
| Local Mobile Tyre Fitters | Search "mobile tyre fitting [your city]" | Many operate evenings/weekends |
| Tyre Dispatch | Bay of Plenty region — we'll help where we can | Contact us |
📚 Other Helpful NZ Resources
| Resource | What It Does | Link |
|---|---|---|
| Waka Kotahi / NZTA | Official road rules, WOF requirements, road conditions | nzta.govt.nz |
| Tyrewise | NZ tyre stewardship — find tyre drop-off points | tyrewise.co.nz |
| MBIE Fuel Check | Compare fuel prices in your area | pricewatch.co.nz |
| Road Conditions | Live traffic, road closures, journey planner | journeys.nzta.govt.nz |
| MetService | Weather warnings, road surface temps, ice risk | metservice.com |
| 🚗 Tyre Dispatch Daily Report | Real-time driving conditions, grip factors by region | Daily Driving Report |
Save the emergency numbers. 111 for emergencies, 0800 500 222 for AA. Know what to do before you need to do it — especially for power poles (stay in car) and fires (get out, don't open bonnet). Keep a compressor and know your spare type.
🔧 Helpful tools: PSI Calculator • Road Conditions Report • Contact Tyre Dispatch
20. Frequently Asked Questions
Need New Tyres or Expert Advice?
Whether you're after everyday tourers, tough all-terrains for the farm, or high-performance rubber for your sports car — we've got you covered. Check out our exclusive Anchee (Yokohama partnership) and Predator (USA-engineered, 55,000-mile warranty) ranges for exceptional value. Quality tyres, straight-up advice, and free North Island delivery.
The Bottom Line
Tyre care isn't complicated — it's just consistent. A quick pressure check each month, a visual inspection before long trips, and addressing issues early before they become expensive problems. That's really all it takes.
Your tyres are the only connection between your vehicle and the road. Whether you're commuting through Auckland traffic, hauling the boat to Lake Taupo, or tackling gravel roads to your favourite camping spot — they deserve attention.
Look after them and they'll look after you.
"Air is the food of tyres. The car can be said to walk on air."
— Triangle Tire Technical Guide
Questions about your tyres or need help choosing the right ones? Get in touch — we're here to help Kiwi drivers make good decisions.
The braking distances, grip factors, and performance data throughout this guide are powered by the UltimateBrakingPhysics Simulator v3.5.1 — a 17-factor physics engine developed by Taylor @ Tyre Dispatch and refined through 4 rounds of GPT-4 code review.
The engine is calibrated against 285 real-world tyre tests including Continental's Contidrom test track results, ADAC tyre tests, and TyreReviews comparative data. Research sources include NASA TN D-2056 (hydroplaning), UNECE R117 (EU labels), Wong's "Theory of Ground Vehicles" (1993), Bosch Automotive Handbook, and the MDPI Sustainability Study 2023 (tyre age degradation).
Try the interactive simulator: Tyre Braking Simulator | EU Tyre Grades | Driving Safety Report
📚 Related Guides & Tools
Continue learning with our other free resources:
Real-time conditions and grip factors by NZ region
🛑 Tyre Braking SimulatorCompare stopping distances by tyre grade and conditions
⚡ PSI Pressure GuideFind the right pressure for your vehicle
📅 DOT Code CalculatorCheck your tyre's manufacturing date
✅ WOF Axle CheckerCheck if your tyres meet same-axle rules
📐 Tyre Size CalculatorCompare sizes and check speedometer accuracy
