The minimum legal tread depth for WoF is 1.5mm across the full tread width. But here's the thing — tyre performance drops off a cliff below 3mm, especially in the wet. We recommend replacing at 3mm. Use a 20 cent coin: if you can see the "20" text, you're getting close.

Yes, but with rules. Tyres on the same axle must match — same size, same construction (radial/cross-ply), and same tread pattern. You can have different brands front to back, that's fine for WoF. Just don't mix and match on the same axle.

Only if your vehicle was designed for it — some performance cars come with staggered setups from the factory. Otherwise, no. For WoF, tyres on each axle must be the same size, and your overall diameter can't exceed 5% of the original without LVV certification. Stick to what's on your door jamb sticker.

There's no hard age limit in NZ law, but most manufacturers recommend replacing tyres after 5-6 years regardless of tread depth. Rubber degrades over time — you'll see cracking in the sidewalls. Inspectors will fail visibly deteriorated tyres. Check the DOT code on your sidewall to find the manufacture date.

Three places to check: your driver's door jamb sticker (most reliable), your owner's manual, or the sidewall of your current tyres. The size looks like 205/55R16. Don't just copy what's on the car if previous owners might have changed sizes — the door sticker shows what the manufacturer intended.

205 is the width in millimetres. 55 is the aspect ratio — the sidewall height is 55% of the width. R means radial construction (almost all modern tyres). 16 is the rim diameter in inches. So 205/55R16 is a 205mm wide tyre with a sidewall about 113mm tall, fitting a 16 inch rim.

You can go slightly bigger, but keep total diameter within 2-3% of original. Go beyond 5% and you'll need LVV certification for WoF. Bigger tyres affect your speedo accuracy, fuel economy, and can rub on guards or suspension. Use our tyre size calculator to check what fits before buying.

Symmetric tyres look the same all the way across — can be fitted any way, easy to rotate. Asymmetric have different inner and outer patterns — better wet/dry balance but must be mounted correctly (look for "Outside" marking). Directional have V-shaped patterns for water dispersal — great in rain but can only rotate front-to-back.

For most Kiwi drivers, asymmetric tyres are the sweet spot — good wet grip, quiet on the motorway, decent longevity. If you're in the South Island or drive a lot in rain, directional patterns disperse water better. Symmetric is fine for budget-conscious driving on mostly dry roads.

Load index is the number after your tyre size (like the "91" in 205/55R16 91V). It tells you the maximum weight each tyre can carry. A 91 rating means 615kg per tyre. Never go lower than your vehicle's original spec — especially important for utes and SUVs carrying loads. You can go higher, just not lower.

The letter after load index (like "V" in 91V) is your speed rating — the maximum safe speed for that tyre. H = 210km/h, V = 240km/h, W = 270km/h. For NZ roads, H or V covers most vehicles. Your tyres must be rated for at least your vehicle's top speed. Going higher is fine, lower isn't legal for WoF.

Check your door jamb sticker — that's your manufacturer's recommendation, typically 30-35 PSI for most cars. Don't use the "Max PSI" on the tyre sidewall; that's the maximum it can handle, not the optimal pressure. Check pressures cold, before driving. Add 2-4 PSI for heavy loads or long motorway trips.

Under-inflated tyres wear on the edges, run hot, hurt fuel economy, and can fail at speed. Over-inflated tyres wear in the centre, give a harsh ride, and have less grip. Both reduce tyre life significantly. Check monthly — tyres naturally lose 1-2 PSI per month.

Every 8,000-10,000km, or roughly every six months for average driving. Front tyres wear faster on front-wheel-drive cars (most NZ vehicles). Rotation evens out wear and can add thousands of kilometres to tyre life. Easy to do at your regular service — just ask.

Four signs: tread depth below 3mm (use the 20 cent test), visible wear indicators (raised bars in the grooves), cracking or bulging in sidewalls, or age over 5-6 years. Uneven wear patterns also signal problems — could be alignment, suspension, or wrong pressures.

Centre wear = over-inflation. Edge wear = under-inflation. One-sided wear = alignment out. Cupping or scalloping = worn suspension. Patchy wear = wheels out of balance. Fix the cause before fitting new tyres or you'll just chew through another set.

Find "DOT" on your sidewall, then look for the last 4 digits. First two = week, last two = year. So "2419" means week 24 of 2019. The code might only be on one side of the tyre, so check both. If you only see 3 digits, the tyre is from before 2000 — definitely replace it.

Yes, if they're properly certified. All tyres sold in NZ must meet safety standards. Budget tyres won't perform like Michelins in extreme conditions, but they're safe for normal driving. The difference is usually in wet braking distance, tread life, and road noise. We only stock budget brands we've personally tested and trust.

For most of the North Island, no. If you're in the South Island highlands, regularly crossing passes, or heading to the snow, then yes — or at least carry chains. Look for tyres marked M+S (mud and snow) or the 3-peak mountain snowflake symbol. All-terrain tyres with M+S work well for occasional cold conditions.

Run-flats let you drive 80km or so after a puncture — handy if you don't have a spare. But they're expensive to replace, give a firmer ride, and most punctures can't be repaired. Unless your car came with them (common on BMWs), we'd say stick with regular tyres and carry a repair kit or spare.