Tyre Tread Pattern Guide Directional, Asymmetrical, Symmetrical & Hybrid
How to identify whether your tyre is directional, asymmetrical, symmetrical or hybrid, using the centre-line method and real data from 981 classified tyres at our Te Puke workshop. Plus what each pattern means for rotation, WoF compliance, wear bias, and replacement cost.
Every Tyre Has a Pattern Direction. Here's Why It Matters.
Every tyre belongs to one of four pattern families, symmetrical, asymmetrical, directional, or the rare hybrid (asymmetrical + directional combined). Knowing which one you've got determines how the tyre can be fitted, rotated, and replaced, and roughly three quarters of the uneven-wear cases that come through our workshop trace back to tyres being rotated the wrong way for their pattern type.
We've classified 981 NZ-market tyres from our own workshop inspections. The distribution is: 63.6% symmetrical, 31.7% asymmetrical, 4.7% directional, less than 1% hybrid. That 4.7% directional figure is the single most important stat for buyers, it's the hardest pattern to replace in a hurry because only about 1 in every 21 tyres in NZ stock is directional.
This guide uses a signature method I use in the workshop every day, called the centre-line method, to help you tell your pattern apart in under ten seconds from the tread face. Plus photos of every sidewall marking that backs up the identification, photos of worn tyres where the tread face lies to you, real wear-bias data showing which patterns develop inside-edge vs centre wear, and what all of it means for rotation, WoF, and buying cost.
The Centre-Line Method: Tell Any Pattern in 10 Seconds
The fastest way to identify a tread pattern without flipping the tyre is the method I use every day in the workshop. Imagine a vertical line running straight down the centre of the tread, splitting the tyre into a left half and a right half. Then walk through three questions.
The 3-step decision tree
See each type in action
Three real tyres from our workshop, each with a vertical white line splitting left half from right. The arrows and verdict label inside each image confirm the pattern type at a glance. Click any image to enlarge.
The Four Pattern Types
Quick-reference cards for every pattern type we encounter in the NZ aftermarket. The percentage on each card header shows how common that pattern is across the 981 tyres we've classified in our workshop. Higher % = more common + easier to replace, lower % = rarer + usually pricier and slower to source. Each card also covers how to identify the pattern, its pros and cons, and example brands.
Left and right halves of the tread are mirror images. No built-in forward direction, no inside/outside orientation. Tread blocks typically form continuous ribs around the full circumference.
Pros
- Rotate to any position
- Easy replacement (widely stocked)
- Most budget-friendly
- Quiet ride, long even wear
Cons
- Less wet-grip vs directional
- Basic cornering feel
- Not performance-oriented
Inner and outer halves have deliberately different tread patterns. Outer half does cornering grip (large blocks, stiff shoulder). Inner half does noise damping and wet channelling (small blocks, more siping).
Pros
- All-round wet + dry
- Strong cornering grip
- Good wet/dry balance
- Full rotation flexibility (OUTSIDE stays out)
Cons
- Must mount correctly
- Fitter error puts OUTSIDE facing car
- Higher price than sym
- Inside edge wears faster
Both halves look the same but the pattern points forward, forming a V or arrow shape. Lateral grooves channel water outward from the contact patch, giving the best hydroplaning resistance of any pattern.
Pros
- Best wet grip
- Hydroplaning resistance
- Great for NZ rain
- High-speed stability
Cons
- Can't swap sides (remount)
- Limited rotation options
- Rarest = hardest to replace
- Slightly higher road noise
Combines both directional V-grooves and different inside/outside halves. The most position-restrictive pattern category, each wheel needs its own specific tyre orientation.
Pros
- Maximum performance
- Track-day capable
- Best of both worlds
Cons
- Zero rotation flexibility
- Position-locked
- Specialist pricing
- Very rare
Tread Anatomy: Blocks, Grooves, Ribs, Sipes
Before diving into pattern types, it helps to know the four core tread elements every pattern arranges differently:
Raised rubber segments that contact the road. Larger blocks = better dry grip and stability. Smaller blocks = better wet traction and noise damping.
Deep channels running around or across the tyre. Channel water away from the contact patch to prevent hydroplaning.
Continuous raised sections running circumferentially. Provide directional stability and consistent road contact.
Thin slits cut into tread blocks. Create extra biting edges for improved grip on wet, icy, or slippery surfaces.
Why anatomy matters for pattern direction. Directional tyres point grooves toward the centre for water evacuation. Asymmetrical tyres use larger blocks on the outer shoulder for cornering grip and smaller blocks on the inner shoulder for quietness. Symmetrical tyres use mirrored blocks that work equally well in any orientation. The arrangement of these four elements is the pattern.
Sidewall Markings: OUTSIDE, INSIDE, ROTATION
Before you look at the tread pattern itself, check the sidewall. Three specific words and one symbol tell you straight away whether the tyre has a required fitting orientation. Three real examples of each marking below (nine unique brands total).
ROTATION arrow (directional tyres)
A large arrow (chevron) beside the word "ROTATION". The arrow must point forward when the wheel is rolling. Fit it the wrong way and the tread pumps water into the contact patch instead of channelling it out.
OUTSIDE text (asymmetric tyres)
The outer-facing sidewall is stamped with "OUTSIDE" (sometimes "OUTWARDS", "SIDE FACING OUTWARDS", or "THIS SIDE OUT"). That side must face away from the car, no exceptions.
INSIDE text (asymmetric tyres, opposite side)
The inner-facing sidewall carries the paired "INSIDE" (or "INWARDS") marking. You only see it when the tyre is off the vehicle, but it's what the fitter checks before mounting.
Both markings together (hybrid tyres)
If a tyre has both a rotation arrow AND an OUTSIDE marking on the same tyre, it's a hybrid. Position-locked, no rotation without remount. Rare enough that we've yet to document one in the NZ aftermarket.
No marking at all (symmetrical tyres)
If you've walked the sidewall and found neither a rotation arrow nor OUTSIDE/INSIDE text, the tyre is symmetrical. Fit any way, any side, any wheel position.
Don't confuse the BSMI Taiwan certification arrow with a rotation arrow. The BSMI regulatory mark contains a small outlined arrow as part of its logo design. It sits in the small regulatory text block alongside the letters "BSMI" and is roughly fingernail-sized. A directional-rotation arrow is much larger (5 to 10 cm), moulded as a standalone chevron, and always sits near the word "ROTATION" or a tread-pattern diagram.
The markings never wear off. They're moulded into the sidewall, not the tread. Even on a heavily worn tyre where the tread face is ambiguous, the sidewall OUTSIDE / INSIDE / ROTATION markings are still there. When in doubt, flip the tyre and read the sidewall.
Mounting Orientation: DOT Date, Coloured Dots, and "Which Side Faces Out"
Here's a nuance most tyre guides skip. Every tyre has a "first-fit outside" side when it gets mounted on a rim, even a plain symmetric tyre with no orientation markings. That's because tyres are manufactured with specific features on one sidewall (the DOT date code, coloured balance dots) that fitters use to orient and balance the tyre. How those features interact with the pattern-direction rules changes depending on which pattern type you have.
The markers every fitter checks before mounting
- DOT date code: the 4-digit code (e.g. "3124" = week 31 of 2024) is only moulded into one sidewall. That side is the "DOT side". The opposite sidewall carries other production info but no date code.
- Yellow dot: marks the lightest point of the tyre. Fitter aligns this dot with the valve stem to minimise wheel-balance weight.
- Red dot: marks the first radial-force harmonic high point. On OE-spec fitments the fitter aligns this with the lowest point of the rim (marked with a small dimple on some wheels).
- White painted markers: occasionally seen alongside the coloured dots, used by specific factories for QC batch tracking.
- Barcodes / stickers: production-line scans for warranty and traceability. Removed before delivery on most tyres.
Why this matters for pattern direction. The DOT date and coloured dots all sit on the same sidewall. So once the tyre is mounted, that whole sidewall is either facing you (outside) or tucked against the car (inside). Which way it ends up depends on the pattern type and the wheel position.
Symmetrical: no rule, but best practice is DOT side outward
Symmetrical tyres have no ROTATION arrow and no OUTSIDE/INSIDE marking. Technically you can mount them any way. In practice, most fitters put the DOT-date side outward at first fitment, for two reasons:
- Makes future age, tread and brand-model checks easier at rotation or service time. The workshop can see the DOT date and production info without lifting the wheel, which matters more when the tyre is 6+ years old and a service check flags it for replacement.
- Allows the coloured dots to serve their balance-alignment purpose at the valve-stem side.
On the next rotation (front-to-back on the same side), the DOT side stays facing out. If the rotation swaps the tyre left-to-right without a remount, the DOT side flips to the inside, which is perfectly legal for symmetric tyres. At the following rotation it can flip back. None of that affects the tyre's performance because the tread itself is symmetric.
WoF isn't what drives this. NZ WoF has no age limit on tyres and inspectors don't typically check DOT dates at all, they check tread depth and physical condition, usually from above or below the vehicle without demounting. The DOT-side-outward convention is about service-and-replacement convenience, not WoF compliance.
Buying secondhand symmetrical tyres: a worth-knowing note
Because symmetrical tyres can be fitted either way round without affecting performance, there's one quirk buyers should be aware of. A symmetrical tyre fitted with the DOT date facing inward hides its age from anyone glancing at the sidewall.
This isn't always deliberate. Plenty of innocent reasons for the DOT side ending up inward on a sym tyre:
- Normal rotation. A front-to-rear rotation on the same side keeps DOT out. A left-to-right swap (without remounting) flips it inward. Over the life of the tyre, rotation naturally alternates which side faces out.
- Whitewall or white-letter tyres. Some symmetric tyres have a white band or white-lettered brand on one sidewall only. Owners who don't want the white look often ask the fitter to flip the tyre so the plain side faces out, which often puts the DOT side inward.
- Secondhand tyres with worn-off coloured dots. If a used tyre no longer has its yellow/red mounting dots visible, the fitter has nothing to orient off and may just fit it either way without checking the DOT date.
But there's also a less-innocent scenario worth knowing about, especially when you're shopping for used tyres or buying a car with tyres already fitted: an older symmetrical tyre in visually-good condition can be sold without the buyer ever seeing the date stamp, simply because the DOT side is tucked against the car. I've had customers come in for new tyres, point to a recently-acquired "good" tyre on their car as the reference, and when I crawl under to check the DOT date I've sometimes found it to be 15+ years old — and the customer was never told. The oldest tyre we've documented coming off an NZ vehicle was a 26-year-old Goodyear Wrangler MT/R from 2000, still in service with a current WoF because the rubber wasn't visibly cracking to the inspector's eye.
Practical buyer check. On any symmetrical tyre purchase (secondhand tyres, used-car purchases, or buying a car with recent replacement tyres):
- New symm tyre with coloured mounting dots still visible? The DOT date should almost always be on the outer sidewall at first fitment. If it isn't, ask why.
- Used symm tyres without visible mounting dots? The DOT side could be either way round. Get the car up on a jack or hoist and read the inner sidewall before committing. If the seller resists that simple check, walk away.
- Buying a car with recently-replaced tyres? Ask the seller for the date of fitment and cross-check against the visible DOT date. If the visible side shows a date that matches "recently fitted", great. If the visible side shows no date, check the inner sidewalls before you accept the claim.
This isn't a common scam and most tyre shops are honest, but it's easy to check and worth knowing about for a purchase that affects your family's safety for the next 3 to 5 years.
Asymmetric: OUTSIDE marking always wins
Asymmetric tyres have a sidewall OUTSIDE marking that overrides everything else. The outer-facing side is defined by the marking, not by where the DOT code happens to sit. Usually the manufacturer puts the DOT code on the OUTSIDE face so it's quick to inspect, but that's a design choice, not a rule.
Directional: arrow-forward is the rule — and the DOT side flips depending on which wheel it's fitted to
This is the subtle one. Directional tyres must be mounted with the ROTATION arrow pointing forward when the wheel is rolling. But a single tyre has only one DOT-date side. Here's what that means in practice:
- Fitted to the left-hand wheel, arrow pointing forward → the DOT-date side ends up outward.
- Fitted to the right-hand wheel, arrow pointing forward → the DOT-date side ends up inward, because the tyre has to be flipped to keep the arrow pointing forward on the opposite side.
So for a directional pair, one tyre shows its DOT side outward and the other hides it. This is completely normal and expected. If you're ever trying to read the DOT date on the inside-facing tyre (for a service record or to check age before buying a used car), you'll typically need to get the car up on a hoist or jack it to see the inner sidewall, or just use the date on the matching opposite-side tyre since they almost always come from the same production batch.
The coloured dots are disposable. They're painted on during manufacturing to help the fitter. Once a tyre is mounted, balanced and driven for a while, the dots wear off. Their absence on a used tyre is normal and doesn't mean anything's missing.
Key takeaway. For asymmetric the OUTSIDE marking is the only rule that matters. For directional the arrow-forward rule is the only rule that matters. For symmetric the DOT-side-outward is best-practice not a rule, and rotation can legitimately flip it. In all three cases the DOT date lives on one sidewall only, and the coloured dots are mounting aids that wear off over time.
Quick-Identify Decision Cards
Walk around the tyre. Look at the sidewall first (both sides, they carry different markings). Find whichever card below matches what you see:
Rotation arrow?
Large arrow or the word "ROTATION" → DIRECTIONAL. Mount with arrow pointing forward.
OUTSIDE / INSIDE?
"OUTSIDE" / "THIS SIDE OUT" / "INWARDS" → ASYMMETRICAL. OUTSIDE must face out.
Both markings?
Both a rotation arrow AND OUTSIDE/INSIDE → HYBRID. Position-locked, no rotation without remount.
Neither?
No directional or inside/outside markings → SYMMETRICAL. Fit any way round.
Not sure? Send us a photo. Photograph both sidewalls and the tread face, email to our team. We'll identify your pattern within minutes and recommend a matching replacement if you need one.
What Each Pattern Looks Like on Fresh Tyres
With plenty of tread depth the three common pattern types are easy to recognise. Here are real examples from our workshop, all with at least 7 mm of tread so the pattern reads cleanly.
Directional 4.7% of NZ market
Both halves are the same shape and both halves point in the same forward direction. Directional tyres must be fitted with the arrow pointing forward when the wheel rolls.
Asymmetrical 31.7% of NZ market
The inner side does one job (flex, noise damping), the outer side does another (cornering grip). Left half and right half are deliberately different.
Symmetrical 63.6% of NZ market
Both halves are mirror images. The pattern has no built-in forward direction and no inside/outside orientation. Most flexible for rotation.
When You Can't Tell From the Tread Alone
As tread wears down the pattern features flatten out. Block edges round off, siping disappears, the depth cues you were using vanish. Below are real worn examples, all still at legal WoF depth (2.2 to 2.8 mm, comfortably above the 1.5 mm minimum) but worn enough that the centre-line method struggles.
Worn directional tyres
The arrow pattern is the first thing to go. Once the V-shape rounds off, it starts to look like a symmetrical pattern.
Worn asymmetrical tyres
Asymmetric designs often keep their inside/outside difference right down to the wear bars, but the edge features that give the halves their distinct "look" soften a lot.
Worn symmetrical tyres
Symmetrical is usually the easiest to keep reading because the mirror-image design stays recognisable. But once blocks round off, a worn symmetrical can look asymmetric because the two halves no longer match as cleanly.
When in doubt, check the sidewall. The moulded OUTSIDE / INSIDE / ROTATION markings never wear off because they're on the sidewall, not the tread. If you can't call the direction from the tread face, flip the tyre.
Side-by-Side Comparison
Every pattern type rated across eight real-world criteria. Scores are relative, read them as "this pattern type vs the others" rather than absolute numbers.
| Feature | Symmetrical | Asymmetrical | Directional | Hybrid |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wet grip | ||||
| Dry handling | ||||
| Tread life | ||||
| Rotation options | All positions | Same side only | Same side only | Position-locked |
| Swap L↔R | Yes | Needs remount | Needs remount | Not possible |
| Road noise | Quiet | Quiet | Moderate | Loud |
| Price range | Budget to mid | Mid to premium | Mid | Specialist |
| Best for | Daily driving, fleet, budget | All-round performance | Wet NZ conditions, winter | Track days |
How Each Direction Wears: Data from 781 Inspections
The pattern direction has a real effect on how the tyre wears over time. We tagged 781 of our inspected tyres with a specific wear pattern. Here's the breakdown of unusual (non-even) wear by direction type.
| Wear pattern | Symmetrical | Asymmetrical | Directional |
|---|---|---|---|
| Inside-edge wear | 4.9% | 14.0% | 4.9% |
| Outside-edge wear | 6.8% | 4.0% | 2.4% |
| Shoulder / edge wear | 12.6% | 4.8% | 4.9% |
| Centre wear | 1.9% | 0% | 7.3% |
| General uneven | 2.5% | 2.0% | 0% |
| Any non-even wear | 28.6% | 24.7% | 19.5% |
What the numbers mean for you
- Asymmetrical tyres get inside-edge wear roughly 3× more often than symmetric or directional. The inside shoulder on an asymm pattern is softer and more flexible by design, so alignment issues and under-inflation hit it first. If you run asymmetrical UHP tyres, get your alignment checked more often than you think you need to.
- Directional tyres are ~4× more likely to wear the centre rib flat. The continuous centre rib that gives directional patterns their straight-line stability also takes the brunt of over-inflation. Directional owners should be especially strict about correct PSI.
- Directional tyres have the lowest overall uneven-wear rate (19.5%). When fitted and pressured correctly, they wear very predictably. The catch is that "fitted and pressured correctly" is more demanding than for symmetrical.
- Symmetrical wins on wear flexibility because it's the only pattern type you can fully rotate (including left-to-right). That flexibility lets you equalise wear across all four corners.
Rotation and Buying Implications
Rotate every 8,000 to 10,000 km for even wear. Rotation options depend on pattern type.
SYMMETRICAL
- ✓ Front ↔ rear
- ✓ Left ↔ right
- ✓ Cross (X) pattern
- ✓ Any position
ASYMMETRICAL
- ✓ Front ↔ rear
- ✓ Left ↔ right
- ✓ Cross (X) pattern
- Wheel offset keeps OUTSIDE out
DIRECTIONAL
- ✓ Front ↔ rear (same side)
- ✗ Left ↔ right (remount)
- ✗ Cross pattern
- Arrow must point forward
HYBRID
- ✗ No position swap
- ✗ Locked to one wheel
- Arrow forward + OUTSIDE out
Why rotate at all?
- Front tyres wear faster than rear (steering + braking + drive forces combined on FWD)
- Regular rotation extends tyre life by 20 to 30%
- Maintains even handling and grip across all four corners
- Catches alignment issues earlier because you notice the pattern shifting between rotations
What this means when you need a replacement
Because only 4.7% of NZ-market tyres are directional, finding a single matching directional tyre in your exact size is the hardest of the three common scenarios.
- Symmetrical single-tyre replacement: widely available, often in stock, most budget-friendly. Our stocked sizes cover most common symmetrical fitments.
- Asymmetrical single-tyre replacement: usually available within a week, priced normally, but check the OUTSIDE/INSIDE orientation matches your remaining tyres before ordering.
- Directional single-tyre replacement: can take longer and cost more. With only 1 in 21 tyres in circulation being directional, your exact model in your exact size isn't always in local stock. Consider replacing in pairs to avoid mismatched wear rates, especially on the drive axle.
- Hybrid single-tyre replacement: assume special order. Almost no NZ-market inventory. Budget for premium pricing and a 2 to 4 week wait.
Buyer takeaway. If long-term flexibility and lower replacement cost matter, symmetrical is the most forgiving pattern. If outright handling performance matters more, asymmetrical UHP is usually the right call. Directional is best for wet-weather performance and mud-terrain work but comes with real rotation and replacement constraints. Hybrid is only worth it if you're tracking the car.
NZ WoF Rules and Pattern Compliance
Under NZTA's VIRM (Vehicle Inspection Requirements Manual) Section 4.2, tyres on the same axle must be of the same pattern type. You can legally run different pattern types front vs rear, but both tyres on the same axle must match.
Same axle = same type. Directional + directional on front axle, OK. Symmetrical + symmetrical on rear axle, OK. But directional + symmetrical on the same axle is a WoF fail.
Visual examples: pass vs fail
Three scenarios that teach the WoF rule in one glance. The axle bars tell the story — green means the axle passes, red means it fails. Green wheels = symmetrical, blue = asymmetrical.
✓ Rear axle: both same pattern
The most common real-world case
✓ Rear axle: both asymmetrical
Different between axles is fine
✗ Rear axle: SYM + ASYM mixed
WoF FAIL — both axles mismatched
Can I have any front + rear combination? Yes — once each axle internally matches, any front pattern can pair with any rear pattern. There are 9 valid setups and 72 invalid setups out of the 81 possible arrangements of 3 patterns across 4 wheel positions. Expand below to see every case.
See all 15 common combinations (9 pass + 6 fail)
✅ 9 PASS setups — each axle internally matches
❌ 6 FAIL examples — common failure modes
Need to check size, load index, construction, and tread depth too? The combinations above only cover the pattern rule. For the full VIRM 4.2 check across every dimension, use our WoF Axle Checker tool → Pick your four tyres, get an instant pass/fail with the exact reason for each axle.
Pattern-direction WoF failures we've seen
- Mixed pattern types on same axle. Most common failure. Usually happens when a single tyre is replaced with whatever's in stock without matching the other axle-mate's pattern type.
- Directional tyre fitted wrong way round. Inspector checks the rotation arrow against wheel direction. If arrow points the wrong way, it's a fail. Rectified by demounting and flipping.
- Asymmetric OUTSIDE facing the car. Fitter error, often on DIY wheel swaps. Also a WoF fail.
Insurance gotcha. Some insurers have declined claims where tyre fitment was found to be non-compliant (directional backwards, asymm inside-out). If your WoF is on the line because of tyre fitment, get it fixed before the next inspection.
Matching a set when replacing: priority order
- Same brand, same model (pattern name)
- Different brand, same pattern type (sym/asym/dir)
- Same size, same load/speed rating
- Same tread depth where possible (within 1.6 mm of axle mate for WoF)
Replacement Scenarios: 1, 2, 3 or 4 Tyres
Replacing 1 tyre
Works best when the other three tyres are still at 5 mm+ tread (so the new one isn't dramatically deeper). For asymmetrical and directional tyres, the replacement must match the existing model or an equivalent pattern type to stay WoF-compliant. Put the new tyre on the non-drive axle to avoid a traction mismatch.
Replacing 2 tyres (same axle)
The most common purchase. Best practice is to fit the new pair on the rear axle, even on a FWD car. Reason: better wet-grip where it matters most for stability. Rotate the previously-rear pair to the front.
Replacing 2 tyres (diagonal)
Awkward scenario, usually from two separate incidents (e.g. front-left + rear-right both damaged in the same week). Each new tyre must match its axle partner in pattern type, size, and tread depth (within 1.6 mm) to stay WoF-compliant. That often means ending up with two different tyre models on the car. If the existing pair is already below 4 mm, seriously consider replacing all four instead.
Replacing 3 tyres
Awkward scenario, usually from a single irreparable puncture on a recently-replaced pair. Match the replacement model and depth to the existing fourth as closely as possible. For directional and asymmetric tyres, this is where replacement-cost pain really shows up.
Replacing all 4
Cleanest option. Recommended when all four are below 3 mm, or when you're switching pattern type (sym → asym for example) because mixing pattern types axle-to-axle would fail WoF.
Tread Wear Diagnosis
Uneven wear patterns tell you what's going wrong with the tyre, the vehicle, or your driving. Here's what the common patterns mean.
Worn down the middle, edges still good. Fix: reduce pressure, over-inflated. Common on directional tyres.
Worn on both shoulders, centre still deep. Fix: increase pressure, under-inflated. Common on symmetrical tyres.
Only one shoulder worn. Fix: check wheel alignment (camber/toe). Common on asymmetrical tyres (inside edge).
Irregular dips around the tread. Fix: check shocks/struts + balance. Often worse on rear of FWD cars.
The 20-cent coin tread test. NZ's quick field check: place a 20¢ coin into the groove with the number "20" facing down. If you can see any of the "20", the tread is below the 1.5mm WoF minimum and the tyre should be replaced.
Best Patterns for NZ Conditions
Directional is the best choice for sustained wet weather, the V-pattern evacuates water far more effectively than any other design.
Asymmetrical UHP gives the best dry cornering feel. Directional advantage is less relevant when it doesn't rain as often.
Symmetrical touring. Quiet, long-wearing, easy to rotate. The right tool when you mostly drive in straight lines on SH1.
Symmetrical AT or directional MT. Sym AT covers gravel + highway. Directional MT for off-road priority.
Directional with 3PMSF. Best snow/slush evacuation. M+S-only without 3PMSF doesn't count as winter-certified.
Asymmetrical UHP or hybrid. Track use changes the trade-offs, cornering forces matter more than rotation flexibility.
Frequently Asked Questions
Related Guides and Tools
Need Help Matching Your Tyre Pattern?
Not sure what pattern type you've got, or whether your pair-replacement will match? Send us a photo or get a quote, we'll identify the pattern, check WoF compliance, and recommend the best matching replacement stocked in NZ.
