Many NZ vehicles list two or even three approved sizes on the door placard. This is normal — the manufacturer has tested and approved multiple options.

Common examples:

• Toyota RAV4: May show 225/65R17 and 225/60R18 — both are factory approved, matching different wheel options
• Ford Ranger: May show 265/65R17, 265/60R18, and 255/65R17
• Suzuki Swift: May show 185/65R15 and 195/50R16

Which to choose:

• Match your current wheel size — if you have 17-inch wheels, use the 17-inch option
• Both are equally safe and WOF-legal — the manufacturer has approved all listed sizes
• The sizes may have different ride characteristics — larger rims with lower profiles feel sportier, smaller rims with taller sidewalls feel more comfortable

Yes — this is called a "staggered fitment" and it's factory-standard on many performance and rear-wheel-drive vehicles.

Common vehicles with staggered fitment in NZ:

• BMW 3/5 Series: e.g., 225/45R18 front, 255/40R18 rear
• Mercedes C-Class: wider rears for traction
• Nissan 370Z / Toyota GR86: wider rear for performance
• Some SUVs and utes with performance packages

Important rules for staggered fitment:

• Both tyres on each axle must be the same size — this is a WOF requirement
• You cannot cross-rotate tyres (front-to-rear swap) if sizes differ
• Always replace in pairs per axle (both fronts or both rears together)

Partly — but it has important limitations you need to understand.

Our vehicle fitment database covers 84,000+ NZ vehicle fitments sourced from manufacturer data. When you look up a vehicle by registration or VIN, it shows the original equipment (OE) tyre sizes — the sizes the vehicle left the factory with.

When a rego lookup helps:

• Replacing all 4 tyres — you can choose any of the OE sizes listed, as long as you match them to your current rim diameter. This is a good time to go back to factory spec if you want to.
• Confirming factory options — useful if you're unsure what sizes your vehicle supports
• Starting point for a quote — gives us your vehicle info so we can recommend options

When a rego lookup does NOT help:

• Replacing 1, 2, or 3 tyres — you must match what's currently fitted on the vehicle, not the OE spec. If your car has 225/55R17s on it and you only need one tyre, you need a 225/55R17 — not the OE 215/60R17 the database suggests. Mixing sizes on the same axle is a WOF failure and a safety risk.
• Aftermarket wheels — if previous owners fitted different wheels, the OE size won't fit them
• Some JDM imports — may not appear in the database at all

This is one of the most common and most dangerous misunderstandings about tyres. Here's the difference:

• Tyre sidewall pressure (e.g., "Max 51 PSI") = the maximum pressure the tyre can physically handle before risking failure. This is a safety limit, not a target.
• Door placard pressure (e.g., "32 PSI front, 30 PSI rear") = the pressure your vehicle manufacturer recommends for your specific vehicle's weight, handling, and comfort. This is what you should use.

What happens if you inflate to max sidewall pressure:

• Centre of tread wears faster (ballooning effect)
• Harsh, bouncy ride — less comfort
• Reduced grip — smaller contact patch with road
• Increased risk of impact damage (less cushioning)

The only exception: XL/Reinforced tyres may need higher pressure (36-42 PSI) to achieve their rated load capacity — but this will be stated on your vehicle's door placard if XL tyres are specified.

🔧 PSI Calculator — get personalised pressure recommendations for your vehicle

These are just three different units for measuring the same thing — air pressure. You'll see all three on tyre sidewalls, pressure gauges, and door placards depending on the manufacturer and country of origin:

Quick conversion for common NZ pressures:

• 32 PSI = 220 kPa = 2.2 bar
• 36 PSI = 248 kPa = 2.5 bar
• 40 PSI = 276 kPa = 2.8 bar
• 44 PSI = 303 kPa = 3.0 bar
• 50 PSI = 345 kPa = 3.4 bar (common for LT/C-rated tyres)

Which should I use? Use whichever unit your pressure gauge reads. Most NZ service stations and gauges use PSI or kPa. If your door placard uses kPa (common on Japanese imports), divide by 6.895 to get PSI.

🔧 Pressure Calculator — converts between all units automatically

Let's decode 215/60R16 95H piece by piece:

• 215 = Section width in millimetres (tyre width when mounted, measured sidewall to sidewall — not the tread width, which is narrower)
• 60 = Aspect ratio (sidewall height is 60% of the width = 129mm)
• R = Radial construction (virtually all modern tyres)
• 16 = Rim diameter in inches (must match your wheel exactly — a 16" tyre will not fit a 15" or 17" wheel)
• 95 = Load index (max 690kg per tyre at correct pressure)
• H = Speed rating (certified safe up to 210 km/h)

Aspect ratio explained simply:

• Lower number (e.g., 35, 40, 45) = shorter sidewall = sportier look, sharper handling, firmer ride, more road feel, more susceptible to pothole damage
• Higher number (e.g., 65, 70, 75) = taller sidewall = more comfort, better bump absorption, more protection for wheels, common on SUVs and 4WDs

📖 Load Rating Guide | Speed Rating Guide

For metric sizes like 215/60R16:

1. Sidewall height: 215mm × 0.60 = 129mm
2. Both sidewalls: 129mm × 2 = 258mm
3. Rim in mm: 16" × 25.4 = 406.4mm
4. Total diameter: 258 + 406.4 = 664.4mm (26.2")

For imperial sizes like 31x10.5R15 — the first number is the diameter: 31 inches (787mm).

Why diameter matters in NZ:

• Tyre diameter must be within ±5% of factory specification to pass WOF without LVV certification
• Changing diameter affects your speedometer accuracy, fuel economy, and gearing
• AWD vehicles may suffer drivetrain damage if tyres are mismatched by more than ~3% diameter

🔧 Tyre Size Calculator — does all the maths instantly with visual comparisons and shows percentage difference for WOF compliance

This is normal and happens for several reasons:

1. Rim width affects actual tyre width:

• A 225/45R17 tyre on a 7-inch rim will measure ~5mm narrower than the same tyre on an 8.5-inch rim
• Wider rims stretch the tyre, narrower rims pinch it — the stamped size is a nominal measurement

2. Manufacturing tolerances:

• Industry standards allow ±3-4% variation in actual dimensions from the stamped size
• Different brands may have slightly different actual measurements for the same stamped size

3. Tread pattern and construction:

• Aggressive mud-terrain tyres with protruding shoulder lugs appear wider than highway tyres
• Run-flat tyres with reinforced sidewalls may appear more "square" in profile

Bottom line: This is cosmetic. As long as both tyres on the same axle are the same stamped size, brand, and model, the minor visual differences are perfectly fine.

The width number in a tyre size (e.g., 265/65R17) is a nominal measurement, not an exact measurement. The actual section width of the tyre depends on several factors:

• Rim width matters: Tyre specifications are measured on a specific "measuring rim" width. Put the same tyre on a wider rim and it spreads wider; a narrower rim pinches it in. A 265 tyre could measure anywhere from 258-274 mm depending on the rim.
• Brand variation: Different manufacturers' moulds produce slightly different actual widths for the same nominal size. A Predator 265/65R17 may be 1-3 mm wider or narrower than another brand's 265/65R17.
• Manufacturing tolerances: Industry standards (ETRTO/TRA) allow variation of around ±3% from the nominal width.
• New vs worn: Brand new tyres are slightly narrower than the stated width until they've been inflated and driven on for a few hundred kilometres, after which the casing settles to its intended shape.

Does this matter? Not for fitment or safety — all tyres stamped 265 will fit wheels rated for 265 and will be WOF-compliant as 265mm tyres. It only becomes relevant if you're measuring with calipers and wondering why the number doesn't match exactly.

🔧 Tyre Size Calculator — compare actual dimensions across sizes

While metric (205/55R16) is most common, you'll encounter several other formats in NZ:

🚙 Imperial/Flotation (4WDs & Utes):

• 31x10.5R15 — 31" overall diameter × 10.5" wide on 15" rim
• 33x12.5R15 — Popular Hilux/Ranger size
• 35x12.5R17 — Large 4WD / lifted trucks
• 37x12.5R17 — Extreme off-road builds

🛻 LT-Metric (Light Truck):

• LT265/75R16 — "LT" prefix = reinforced for commercial loads
• LT285/70R17 — Higher load capacity than passenger (P-metric)

🚐 Commercial/Van:

• 195R15C — "C" suffix = Commercial rating (Hiace, vans)
• 215/70R15C — Larger vans and motorhomes

🏎️ P-Metric (Passenger):

• P225/45R17 — "P" prefix = passenger car rating (mainly US convention)

🚛 Numeric Width in Inches (older/commercial):

• 7.00R16 — 7.0" wide on 16" rim. Common on older trucks and Land Rovers
• 7.50R16 — Heavy-duty commercial

🔧 Tyre Size Calculator — convert between any formats

You'll encounter various alternative size formats on older vehicles, trailers, classic cars, and imports:

🔹 Missing Aspect Ratio (e.g., 155R13, 195R15, 185R14C):

When there's no middle number, the aspect ratio defaults to approximately 80-82%.

• 155R13 = 155/80R13
• 195R15 = 195/80R15
• 185R14C = 185/80R14C

This convention dates from when 80-series was the standard profile.

🔹 Simplified Imperial (e.g., 31R15):

Shorthand showing only overall diameter and rim size — width unspecified:

• 31R15 ≈ 31x10.5R15 or similar

🔹 Numeric Width in Inches (e.g., 6.50R16, 7.50R16):

• 6.50R16 = 6.5" wide (~165mm) on 16" rim
• 7.00R16 = 7.0" wide (~178mm) on 16" rim
• 7.50R16 = 7.5" wide (~190mm) on 16" rim

🔹 Bias-Ply Notation (hyphen instead of R):

• 7.50-16 (hyphen) = bias-ply construction (diagonal cords)
• 7.50R16 (R) = radial construction (modern standard)

Never mix bias-ply and radial tyres on the same axle — this is a WOF failure in NZ.

Three different standards that can look confusingly similar:

P-metric (P225/65R17):

• "P" prefix = US passenger car standard
• Designed for lighter loads and passenger comfort
• Load ratings calculated differently — generally lower capacity than equivalent Euro-metric
• Common on US-spec vehicles and some Japanese imports

Euro-metric (225/65R17) — no prefix:

• European standard — no letter prefix
• Slightly higher load capacity than P-metric at the same load index number
• This is the standard used in NZ and most of the world

LT-metric (LT225/75R16):

• "LT" prefix = Light Truck — reinforced construction for commercial loads
• Heavier casing, stiffer sidewalls, higher maximum pressure
• Required for vehicles with GVWR over ~2,700kg or when carrying heavy loads
• Often shows dual load indexes (e.g., 115/112S)

Does the P vs Euro-metric difference matter in NZ?

For most passenger cars — no. Both will fit the same wheel and pass WOF. However, if your vehicle specifies LT tyres (most utes, large SUVs, vans), you must use LT-rated tyres — substituting passenger tyres won't handle the load safely.

ST = Special Trailer. These tyres are designed exclusively for trailers and are not safe for use on cars, utes, or any steered/driven vehicle.

Why ST tyres are different:

• Stiffer sidewalls to resist trailer sway at highway speeds
• Higher load capacity for their size
• No traction optimisation — they're not designed to grip, steer, or brake
• No heat dissipation for driven wheels — a powered axle generates more heat than a trailer axle

Conversely — can I use car tyres on my trailer?

Technically yes, but the car tyre must meet or exceed the trailer's load rating and speed rating requirements. Passenger tyres on heavy trailers (boat trailers, car transporters) often can't handle the load — check the ratings carefully.

Common ST sizes in NZ:

• ST205/75R15 — medium trailers
• ST225/75R15 — boat trailers, car transporters
• ST235/80R16 — heavy-duty trailers

TL = Tubeless — the tyre seals directly to the rim without needing an inner tube. This is the standard for virtually all modern passenger and 4WD tyres.

TT = Tube Type — requires a separate rubber inner tube inside the tyre to hold air. Still used on some older vehicles, agricultural equipment, and certain trailer tyres.

Why it matters:

• Tubeless (TL) is safer — if punctured, air leaks slowly (the tyre can seal around small objects). A tube-type tyre with a puncture deflates instantly.
• You cannot run a tube-type tyre tubeless — the inner surface isn't sealed to be airtight against the rim
• You can add a tube to a tubeless tyre in an emergency, but it's not recommended long-term as heat builds up between tube and tyre

In NZ: If your tyre doesn't say "TT" or "Tube Type", it's tubeless. All passenger, SUV, 4WD, and light truck tyres we sell are tubeless (TL).

Your speed rating must match or exceed your vehicle's specification (found on door placard). Here's the complete chart:

WOF requirement: Tyres must meet or exceed the vehicle manufacturer's specified speed rating. Fitting a lower rating will fail WOF inspection.

📖 Complete Speed Rating Guide

ZR is a legacy speed category indicating the tyre is rated for sustained speeds above 240 km/h.

Modern usage: ZR is now combined with W or Y ratings:

• 225/45ZR17 94W — ZR construction, W = max 270 km/h
• 255/35ZR19 96Y — ZR construction, Y = max 300 km/h

Historical note: Before W and Y ratings existed, ZR covered everything 240+ km/h. Now it indicates high-performance construction quality rather than a specific speed limit.

Practical impact in NZ: None — it's a construction indicator. A 225/45ZR17 and 225/45R17 with the same speed rating letter are interchangeable.

Higher speed rating — yes, always fine:

• No downsides beyond potentially slightly firmer ride (higher-rated tyres often use stiffer compounds)
• A V-rated tyre on a car that requires H is perfectly safe and WOF-compliant
• You may get slightly better high-speed stability and heat resistance

Lower speed rating — no, with one narrow exception:

• WOF failure: Fitting a lower speed rating than specified will fail WOF in New Zealand
• Safety risk: At sustained high speeds, the tyre may overheat and fail
• Exception: Some winter tyre regulations in other countries allow one grade lower for dedicated snow tyres — but NZ has no such exemption

Mixing speed ratings on the same vehicle:

• Same axle = must match (WOF requirement)
• Different axles = technically allowed if both meet minimum spec, but not recommended
• If you must mix, put the higher-rated tyres on the rear for stability

The load index indicates maximum weight each tyre can carry at correct pressure. Always match or exceed your vehicle's requirement.

Quick check: Load index × 4 tyres = vehicle's maximum supported weight. This must meet or exceed your vehicle's Gross Vehicle Mass (GVM).

WOF requirements: Tyres must meet or exceed the manufacturer's specified load index. Different load ratings on the same axle will fail WOF.

📖 Complete Load Rating Guide

A dual load index like 121/118S appears on LT (Light Truck) tyres and indicates different load capacities depending on how the tyre is used:

• First number (121) = load capacity in single fitment (one tyre per side, standard setup) = 1,450kg per tyre
• Second number (118) = load capacity in dual fitment (two tyres per side on rear axle, like on some trucks and larger commercial vehicles) = 1,320kg per tyre

Why is the dual number lower? When two tyres are mounted side by side, they generate more heat (less airflow between them), so the load capacity is reduced for safety.

Which number applies to me?

• Ute, SUV, standard 4WD: Use the first (higher) number — you have single fitment
• Truck with dual rear wheels ("dually"): Use the second (lower) number

If your tyre shows only one number (e.g., 95H), it's a passenger/standard tyre designed for single fitment only.

HL = High Load — a relatively new marking primarily developed for heavy EVs and plug-in hybrids.

Why HL exists: Electric vehicles are significantly heavier than equivalent petrol/diesel cars due to battery packs (often 400-800kg of batteries alone). A Tesla Model Y weighs ~2,000kg vs ~1,500kg for a comparable petrol SUV. Standard tyres may not have sufficient load capacity.

What HL changes:

• Higher load capacity than XL at the same inflation pressure
• Reinforced internal construction specifically designed for heavy vehicle weight
• Often paired with EV-optimised compounds (low rolling resistance, high torque resistance)

Do I need HL tyres?

• If your vehicle specifies HL — yes, you should use HL or equivalent load capacity
• If your EV uses standard XL tyres — standard XL at correct pressure is fine
• HL is becoming more common as EVs get heavier — check your owner's manual

📖 EV Tyres Guide — NZ

No — ply rating is a strength equivalent, not actual layer count.

Historically, tyres used cotton plies. A "10-ply" tyre had 10 cotton layers. Modern tyres use stronger materials (nylon, polyester, steel) so fewer actual layers achieve the same strength.

A "10-ply rated" tyre today might only have 2-4 actual plies — but those modern plies are as strong as 10 old cotton ones.

XL (Extra Load) and RF (Reinforced) indicate tyres with strengthened construction designed to carry more weight at higher pressures.

Key differences from standard (SL) tyres:

• Higher load capacity at maximum pressure
• Stiffer sidewalls
• Require higher inflation — typically 2.5-2.9 bar (36-42 PSI) to achieve rated load

Is it safe to mix XL and standard load (SL) on the same vehicle?

Per axle — not ideal but sometimes unavoidable. If mixing, ensure both tyres on each axle are the same type (both XL or both SL). Never mix XL and SL on the same axle.

Common on: European performance cars, heavy SUVs, vehicles with factory XL specification.

🔧 PSI Calculator

Yes — this is called "plus sizing" (bigger rims) or "minus sizing" (smaller rims), and it's one of the most common tyre modifications in NZ.

The golden rule: When you change rim size, you must adjust the tyre profile (aspect ratio) to keep the overall diameter within ±5% of factory.

Plus sizing example (16" → 17"):

• Factory: 205/55R16 (diameter = 632mm)
• Plus 1: 215/45R17 (diameter = 626mm) — ✅ within 1%
• Result: Wider, lower profile. Sportier look, sharper handling, firmer ride.

Minus sizing example (18" → 17"):

• Factory: 225/40R18 (diameter = 637mm)
• Minus 1: 215/50R17 (diameter = 647mm) — ✅ within 2%
• Result: More sidewall cushion. Better pothole protection, more comfort, cheaper tyres.

Benefits vs trade-offs:

🔧 Tyre Size Calculator — enter your current and proposed sizes to see exact diameter difference and WOF compliance

Your speedometer and odometer are calibrated for a specific tyre diameter. Change the diameter and both readings become inaccurate:

Larger diameter (taller tyres):

• Speedometer reads slower than actual speed (you're going faster than displayed)
• Odometer under-counts distance (records fewer km than actually driven)
• Example: 3% larger diameter → speedo shows 97 km/h when you're actually doing 100 km/h

Smaller diameter (shorter tyres):

• Speedometer reads faster than actual speed (you're going slower than displayed)
• Odometer over-counts distance

How much error is acceptable in NZ?

• NZ WOF allows ±5% tyre diameter change from factory spec without certification
• At 5% oversize: your speedo shows ~95 km/h when you're doing 100 km/h — a ~5 km/h error
• For speed cameras: NZ has a general tolerance, but relying on speedo error is not recommended

Can I recalibrate? Some vehicles allow speedometer correction through the ECU. Aftermarket GPS speedometers are also available for around $50-100.

🔧 Tyre Size Calculator — shows exact speedometer error for any size change

In New Zealand, the NZTA VIRM (Vehicle Inspection Requirements Manual) allows tyre modifications within these limits without requiring Low Volume Vehicle (LVV) certification:

The rules:

• Overall diameter: Must be within ±5% of the vehicle manufacturer's original specification
• No protrusion: Tyres must not extend more than 25mm beyond the body panels (guards/fenders)
• No rubbing: Tyres must not contact any suspension, steering, or body components at full lock or full compression
• Speed rating: Must meet or exceed vehicle's specified rating
• Load rating: Must meet or exceed vehicle's specified rating

Practical example — Toyota Hilux (factory 265/65R17):

• Factory diameter: 776mm
• 5% tolerance: 737mm to 815mm
• Maximum without cert: ~815mm ≈ 32.1 inches
• 285/70R17 = 832mm (33") — exceeds 5%, needs LVV certification
• 275/70R17 = 813mm (32") — just within 5%, WOF legal (but check guard clearance)

🔧 Tyre Size Calculator — enter your factory size and proposed size to check if you're within the 5% rule

📖 WOF Tyre Requirements Guide

This is the most common upsizing question in NZ — and the answer depends on your specific model and willingness to modify:

Ford Ranger (factory ~31.6" / 265/65R17):

• 32" (e.g., 275/70R17): ✅ Usually fits stock with minor rubbing at full lock — within 5% rule
• 33" (e.g., 285/70R17): ⚠️ Exceeds 5% diameter limit. Requires LVV certification. May rub on stock guards at full compression/lock. Lift kit recommended.
• 35" (e.g., 315/70R17): ❌ Definitely needs lift kit, guard trimming/flares, and LVV certification

Toyota Hilux (factory ~31.2" / 265/65R17):

• 32": ✅ Similar to Ranger — usually fits stock, edge of 5% rule
• 33": ⚠️ Same story — LVV certification needed, potential rubbing

Nissan Navara (factory ~30.5-31.2"):

• Generally has less clearance than Ranger/Hilux — 33s almost always need a lift

What you'll need for 33s on stock suspension:

• LVV certification (~$400-800)
• Possibly guard flares or trimming (for 25mm protrusion rule)
• Speedometer recalibration (6-7% error)
• Potentially longer wheel studs or spacers for clearance

Our recommendation: If you want to stay WOF-legal without certification, the sweet spot for Ranger/Hilux/Navara is a 275/70R17 (approx 32.2") — maximum size within the 5% rule on most models.

🛒 Shop All-Terrain Tyres | Shop Mud-Terrain Tyres

Lift kits and wheel spacers are the two most common modifications NZ 4WD owners use to fit larger tyres:

🔧 Lift Kits:

• What they do: Raise the body/frame higher above the axles, creating more vertical clearance between tyre and guard
• 2-inch lift: Typically allows 33-inch tyres without rubbing
• 3-4 inch lift: Typically allows 35-inch tyres
• NZ rules: Lifts over 50mm (2") from factory height generally require LVV certification

🔧 Wheel Spacers:

• What they do: Push the wheel outward from the hub, creating more inner clearance (between tyre and suspension/steering components)
• Typical size: 25-38mm spacers
• Trade-off: More inner clearance but the tyre moves outward — may now protrude beyond guards (25mm rule)
• NZ rules: Hub-centric spacers are generally acceptable; ensure wheel nuts still engage at least as many turns as the bolt diameter

Check clearance at:

• Full steering lock (both directions) — check inner guard, tie rods, sway bar
• Full suspension compression (hit a bump with load) — check top of guard arch
• Both combined (turning while hitting a bump) — the worst-case scenario

AWD (All-Wheel Drive) systems distribute power to all four wheels through a centre differential or transfer case. These components expect all four tyres to be rotating at essentially the same speed.

What happens with mismatched sizes:

• Different-sized tyres rotate at different speeds — even a small difference
• The centre differential constantly works to compensate, generating excessive heat
• Over time, this can destroy the centre differential, transfer case, or viscous coupling
• Repair costs: $2,000-5,000+ depending on vehicle

How closely must tyres match?

• Subaru: Maximum 2/32" (1.6mm) tread depth difference between any two tyres — the strictest in the industry
• Most other AWD (Audi, BMW xDrive, Kia/Hyundai): Generally within 3-4% rolling circumference difference
• Part-time 4WD (Hilux, Ranger in 2WD mode): Less critical when in 2WD — only matters when 4WD is engaged

Practical advice for AWD owners:

• Always replace in sets of four if possible (especially Subaru)
• If replacing two, ensure the new tyres are same brand, model, and size as existing
• Rotate tyres regularly to maintain even wear across all four
• If one tyre is damaged, some tyre shops can "shave" a new tyre to match the tread depth of your existing three

Each tyre width has an acceptable rim width range. Going too narrow or wide causes poor handling, uneven wear, and potential bead problems.

Pro tip: Middle of the range = optimal contact patch and even wear. Extremes technically fit but may affect handling.

Wheels have their own sizing code, usually stamped on the inner barrel or back of a spoke:

Example: 17x7J ET38 5x114.3 CB67.1

• 17 = Rim diameter in inches (must match tyre's rim size exactly)
• 7 = Rim width in inches (determines which tyre widths are compatible — see table above)
• J = Rim flange profile (J is standard for most passenger/SUV wheels)
• ET38 = Offset in mm (distance from the hub mounting face to the wheel's centre line)
  • Higher ET (e.g., ET45) = wheel sits further inward (closer to suspension)
  • Lower ET (e.g., ET25) = wheel sits further outward (more "flush" with guard)
  • Changing offset affects tyre clearance, handling, and whether tyres protrude beyond guards
• 5x114.3 = Bolt pattern (5 bolts, 114.3mm circle diameter)
• CB67.1 = Centre bore diameter (must match or exceed hub diameter)

Why offset matters for tyre fit: Even if a tyre is the right size, a wheel with too-low offset may push the tyre beyond the guard. A wheel with too-high offset may cause the tyre to contact suspension components.

The size stamped on a tyre (e.g., 225mm) is measured on a specific "measuring rim" width. Mount it on a different width rim and the actual width changes:

• Rule of thumb: For every 0.5 inch wider or narrower than the measuring rim, the tyre's actual section width changes by approximately 5mm
• Example: A 225mm tyre on a 7" rim measures ~225mm. On an 8.5" rim, it measures ~240mm. On a 6" rim, it measures ~210mm.

Why this matters:

• Guard clearance: A tyre on a wide rim may rub where it wouldn't on a narrower rim
• Contact patch shape: On a wider rim, the tread flattens out for a wider, squarer contact patch (better dry grip). On a narrower rim, the tread crowns (rounder contact) which can improve wet drainage.
• "Stretched" look: Fitting a tyre on a wider-than-ideal rim creates the stretched tyre look popular in some car scenes — but reduces sidewall protection and is not recommended for daily driving.

Despite being only half an inch different in nominal size, 16-inch and 16.5-inch rims are completely incompatible:

• A 16" tyre will physically mount onto a 16.5" rim — it appears to fit
• But the tyre bead cannot properly seal on the larger rim flange
• During inflation, the tyre can blow off the rim explosively — sending the assembly across a workshop at lethal force
• This has caused multiple deaths in the tyre industry worldwide

How to identify 16.5" rims:

• Look for "16.5" stamped on the rim
• Common on older American trucks (Ford F-250, Chevy C20), military vehicles, and some older trailers
• The rim bead seats are shaped differently to 16" rims

If you have 16.5" rims:

• Use only tyres specifically marked as 16.5 inch
• These are increasingly rare — many owners convert to standard 16" or 17" wheels when 16.5" tyres become unavailable
• Contact us if you're unsure — we'll help you identify your rims

C = Commercial (also called "Cargo" or "Commercial-ply"). This indicates reinforced construction designed for vans, light trucks, and commercial vehicles.

C-rated tyres have: Higher load capacity, stiffer sidewalls, typically 6-8 ply rating, and higher maximum inflation pressure.

Common on: Toyota Hiace, Ford Transit, delivery vans, tradesman vehicles, motorhomes.

C vs LT — which should I use? In NZ, either is acceptable for most vans and utes — they serve the same purpose (reinforced for load). C is the European designation, LT is the US designation. Check your placard for what's specified.

M+S = Mud and Snow — but this marking is far more common than you'd think and does NOT mean it's a dedicated snow tyre.

The reality: Almost ALL tyres sold in NZ carry the M+S marking, including passenger, SUV, all-terrain, and highway tyres. It's essentially a baseline standard indicating the tread pattern has some all-season capability.

How to identify ACTUAL winter tyres:

Look for the 3PMSF symbol (Three Peak Mountain Snowflake) — a mountain icon with a snowflake inside: ❄️🏔️

• M+S alone: All-season capability, fine for most of NZ
• M+S + 3PMSF symbol: TRUE winter/snow tyre — independently tested in severe snow conditions

This indicates an asymmetric tyre that must be mounted with correct orientation.

• "OUTSIDE" — this sidewall must face outward (visible when looking at the car)
• "INSIDE" — this sidewall faces inward toward the vehicle

Why it matters: Asymmetric tyres have different tread patterns on inner vs outer portions — the outer is optimised for dry grip and cornering, the inner for water evacuation. Mounting backwards severely reduces performance and can be dangerous in wet conditions.

Good news: Asymmetric tyres can be rotated to any position on the vehicle (front-to-rear, cross-rotation) — just keep "OUTSIDE" facing out.

📖 Tread Pattern Guide

An arrow (sometimes with the word "ROTATION") indicates a directional tyre that must be mounted to rotate in one direction only.

The arrow shows the direction of rotation when the vehicle moves forward.

Why it matters: Directional tyres have V-shaped tread patterns designed to channel water outward from the centre. Mounted backwards, they funnel water toward the centre instead — increasing aquaplaning risk.

Rotation restriction: Directional tyres can only be rotated front-to-back on the same side of the vehicle. You cannot cross-rotate them (swap left-to-right) without remounting on the rim.

These are assembly reference marks used during tyre fitting:

🟡 Yellow Dot — Lightest Point:

• Ideally aligned with the valve stem (heaviest point on wheel)
• Reduces the amount of balancing weight needed

🔴 Red Dot — High Point (Uniformity Mark):

• Marks the point of maximum radial force variation
• Should align with a white dot or dimple on the wheel (if present) for smoothest ride

These all indicate the same feature — a raised rubber ridge near the rim edge designed to protect your alloy wheel from kerb damage:

• FR = Felgenschutz Rippe (German — "rim protection rib") — used by Continental
• FP = Fringe Protector — used by various brands
• MFS = Maximum Flange Shield — used by Dunlop
• Rim Protector / RPB — generic term used by many brands

Does it work? It provides some protection against minor kerb scuffs and parallel parking mishaps. It won't protect against hard kerb impacts at speed, but it does help preserve your alloy wheels during everyday driving.

Does it affect fitment? No — it doesn't change the tyre size or compatibility. It's purely a protective feature.

Common on: Low-profile tyres (40-series, 45-series) where the short sidewall leaves alloy wheels more exposed to kerb contact.

Those little rubber whiskers are called vent spews (or sprue rubber). They're a completely normal byproduct of the manufacturing process — not a defect.

How they form: During vulcanisation, the raw rubber is pressed into a mould under enormous heat and pressure. Tiny vent holes in the mould allow trapped air to escape so the rubber fills every detail of the tread pattern perfectly. A small amount of rubber squeezes into these vent holes, creating the little hair-like projections.

Should I remove them? No need — they'll wear off within the first few hundred kilometres of driving. They have zero effect on grip, handling, noise, or balance. Some people trim them for aesthetics, but it makes no functional difference.

Fun fact: The presence of vent spews actually tells you the tyre is brand new and undriven. If you're buying "new" tyres and they don't have any spews, they may have been previously mounted or display-used.

The coloured lines running around the circumference of the tread are factory identification markings. They serve a practical purpose in warehousing and logistics — not performance.

What the colours mean:

• Each combination of coloured stripes identifies a specific tyre model and size
• Warehouse staff use the stripe patterns to quickly identify tyres when they're stacked — you can't easily read the sidewall when tyres are stacked on pallets
• The exact colour code is internal to each manufacturer — there's no universal standard (red doesn't always mean the same thing across brands)

Will they come off? Yes — the paint wears away completely within the first few kilometres of driving. They're water-based and harmless to the rubber compound.

Note: These are different from the yellow and red dots on the sidewall, which are tyre uniformity markings used during fitting (see Q38 above).

The E-mark (a letter "E" followed by a number inside a circle) confirms the tyre has been tested and approved under United Nations ECE regulations — the international safety standard for tyres.

What the number means: The number after "E" identifies which country's authority approved the tyre:

• E1 = Germany
• E2 = France
• E3 = Italy
• E4 = Netherlands
• E9 = Spain
• E11 = United Kingdom
• E13 = Luxembourg
• E24 = Ireland

The country code tells you where the type approval was granted — it doesn't necessarily mean the tyre was manufactured there.

Is it required in NZ? While NZ doesn't mandate ECE approval by law, tyres sold through legitimate channels (including all Tyre Dispatch stock) carry E-marks as standard. It's a strong indicator of a tyre meeting international safety and quality benchmarks. Any tyre with an E-mark meets the testing requirements for braking, speed endurance, and load capacity.

All Anchee and Predator tyres carry E-mark certification.

TWI stands for Tread Wear Indicator. These small triangular arrows or letters stamped around the sidewall point you to the wear bars (also called wear indicators) hidden inside the main tread grooves.

How to use them:

• Find the TWI marking on the sidewall (there are typically 6 evenly spaced around the tyre)
• Follow the arrow directly up into the nearest main groove
• You'll see a small raised rubber bridge at the bottom of the groove — that's the wear bar
• When your tread surface wears down flush with the wear bar, the tyre has reached 1.6 mm — the absolute legal minimum in NZ

NZ WOF requirement: Tread must be at least 1.5 mm across 75% of the tread width. However, we recommend replacing at 3 mm for wet road safety — wet braking performance drops significantly below this point.

📖 WOF Tyre Guide — full NZ tread depth and inspection requirements

Some tyres carry OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) approval marks — small codes indicating the tyre was specifically developed and approved for a particular car brand:

Do I need the OEM-marked version?

• No — it's not required. A 225/45R17 without the MO marking is the same size as one with it
• The OEM version may have minor compound or construction tweaks for that specific car
• OEM-marked tyres are often more expensive due to exclusivity
• For NZ WOF purposes, the OEM marking has zero relevance — only size, load, and speed ratings matter

Run-flat markings vary by manufacturer:

Can I replace run-flats with normal tyres?

• If your car has a spare tyre/space-saver: Yes — you can switch to standard tyres. Many NZ BMW owners do this for better ride comfort and lower tyre costs.
• If your car has NO spare (only run-flats): You technically can, but you'll have no backup if you get a puncture. Consider carrying a puncture repair kit or portable compressor.
• TPMS (Tyre Pressure Monitoring System): If your car has TPMS, it still works with standard tyres — it monitors pressure, not tyre type.

We stock Anchee TITAN ACF01 run-flat tyres — a more affordable alternative to premium run-flat brands.

🛒 Shop Anchee Tyres

As EVs become more common in NZ, you'll see more tyre markings designed specifically for electric vehicles:

• HL (High Load): Higher load capacity to handle heavier EV battery weight — see Q21 above
• Elect / EV / ⚡: Manufacturer's designation for EV-optimised tyres, which typically feature:
  • Lower rolling resistance (extends range)
  • Acoustic foam liner (reduces cabin noise — EVs don't have engine noise to mask road noise)
  • Stiffer construction to handle instant torque from electric motors
  • Higher load ratings for battery weight
• "Acoustic" / "Silent" / "ContiSilent": Contains foam inserts inside the tyre to dampen road noise — common on EV tyres but also available for ICE vehicles

Do I need EV-specific tyres on my EV?

• Not strictly required — any tyre that matches size, load, and speed ratings will work
• EV-specific tyres do improve range (~3-5% typically) and reduce cabin noise
• Standard tyres on an EV may wear faster due to the higher weight and instant torque

📖 Complete EV Tyres Guide — NZ | 🛒 Shop Anchee EV Tyres

Some premium and EV-focused tyres contain a strip of polyurethane foam bonded to the inside of the tread area. This foam absorbs tyre cavity resonance — the hollow drumming noise that travels through the wheel and into the cabin.

How to identify them:

• Continental: "ContiSilent" — marked with a speaker icon on the sidewall
• Pirelli: "PNCS" (Pirelli Noise Cancelling System)
• Hankook: "SoundAbsorber" — marked with "S" or speaker icon
• Bridgestone: "B-Silent"
• Goodyear: "SoundComfort"

How much difference does it make? Manufacturers claim up to 9 dB reduction in cavity noise. In practice, most drivers notice a meaningful reduction in low-frequency road drone, especially at motorway speeds. The difference is most obvious in quiet cabins — EVs, luxury vehicles, and hybrids.

Can they be repaired? Yes, but the foam may need to be cut around the repair area. Any competent tyre fitter can handle this — just let them know the tyre has foam lining so they don't damage it during mounting.

Do I need them? Not required — they're a comfort upgrade. Standard tyres work perfectly well on any vehicle including EVs.

Self-sealing tyres have a sticky sealant layer bonded to the inner tread surface that automatically seals small punctures (typically up to 5 mm diameter) without the driver even noticing.

How to identify them:

• Continental: "ContiSeal" — marked on sidewall
• Michelin: "SELFSEAL" — stamped on sidewall
• Pirelli: "Seal Inside"
• Hankook / Nexen: Various proprietary names

How is this different from run-flat?

• Self-seal = prevents slow leaks from nails/screws by sealing the hole around the object. The tyre rides and feels like a normal tyre. If the object falls out, the sealant fills the gap.
• Run-flat = reinforced sidewalls let you drive on a flat tyre for ~80 km. Doesn't prevent the flat — just lets you limp to a shop.

Limitations: Self-sealing tyres won't help with large gashes, sidewall damage, or punctures larger than about 5 mm. They also can't seal damage in the shoulder or bead area.

Available in NZ? Limited availability — mainly in premium brands and specific sizes. Not yet common in the NZ market but growing, especially as EVs increase (many EVs ship without spare tyres).

The DOT code on your tyre sidewall reveals manufacture date and factory location.

Example: DOT B9JR VDYX 2624

• DOT — confirms compliance with safety standards
• B9JR — plant code (identifies the specific factory)
• VDYX — tyre size and type codes
• 2624 — manufacture date: week 26 of 2024 (late June 2024)

Date code format: First 2 digits = week (01-52), Last 2 digits = year

• 0125 = Week 1 of 2025 (early January)
• 5223 = Week 52 of 2023 (late December)

Only 3 digits? That means the tyre was made before 2000 — it's definitely too old and should be replaced immediately.

Can't find the DOT code? The full code (including date) is sometimes only moulded on one side of the tyre. If you can only see a partial code, the date is on the other sidewall (facing inward when mounted).

🔧 DOT Code Calculator — instantly decode any tyre's age and identify the factory from 1,156+ plant codes

90%+ of our tyres are manufactured within the last 1-2 years.

We rotate stock regularly with fresh shipments direct from factory. Any older stock (2+ years) is clearly marked and discounted accordingly.

Industry guidance on tyre age:

• 0-5 years: ✅ Perfectly fine — full performance
• 6-9 years: ⚠️ Inspect carefully for cracking, hardening
• 10+ years: ❌ Replace regardless of tread — rubber degrades with age

What about "production date" vs "import date"? In NZ, all tyres are imported — there can be a gap between manufacture and arrival. A tyre made in January and arriving in NZ in April is perfectly normal. What matters is the DOT date code, not when it entered NZ.

With 100,000+ tyres sold, we move stock fast — freshness is rarely a concern.

The brand name is always moulded into the sidewall — usually the largest text visible.

Where to look:

• Outer sidewall: Brand name (e.g., "ANCHEE", "PREDATOR", "BRIDGESTONE")
• Below brand: Model/pattern name (e.g., "AC818", "New Mutant X-AT")
• Around circumference: Size, load, speed ratings

Worn or weathered text? The DOT code's plant code can sometimes help identify the manufacturer — use our DOT Code Calculator.

Still can't tell? Take a photo and send it to us — or try our AI Tyre Scanner which can identify brands from photos.

Based on our sales data and NZ fleet composition, the most popular sizes fall into three categories:

🚗 Top Passenger Car Sizes:

• 205/55R16 — Toyota Corolla, Mazda 3, Honda Civic, Hyundai i30
• 195/65R15 — Toyota Corolla (older), Mazda 2/3, Honda Fit/Jazz
• 225/45R17 — Mazda 6, Subaru Impreza/WRX, performance sedans
• 215/60R16 — Toyota Camry, Honda Accord, mid-size sedans
• 185/65R15 — Suzuki Swift, Toyota Yaris, smaller hatchbacks

🚙 Top SUV/Crossover Sizes:

• 225/65R17 — Toyota RAV4, Nissan X-Trail, Honda CR-V
• 225/55R18 — Modern SUVs and crossovers
• 235/55R18 — Hyundai Tucson, Kia Sportage
• 235/60R18 — Mid-size SUVs

🛻 Top Ute/4WD Sizes (our biggest sellers):

• 265/65R17 — Ford Ranger, Toyota Hilux, Nissan Navara (factory)
• 265/70R17 — Ranger/Hilux owners wanting slightly taller
• 265/60R18 — Newer Rangers, Hilux, and Navara
• 275/70R16 — Toyota Land Cruiser, older 4WDs
• 265/75R16 — Classic 4WD size (Pajero, Prado, Surf)
• 285/70R17 — Popular upgrade size (approx. 33")
• 265/50R20 — Ranger Wildtrak, Hilux with 20" wheels

🛒 Shop All Tyres | 🔧 Get a Quote for Your Size →

Here are factory tyre sizes for NZ's top-selling vehicles (sizes may vary by model year and trim level — always check your door placard):

🛒 Shop All Tyres | 🛒 Shop 4WD Tyres